Rear Hydraulic Connectors Installed

_DX3_ · #1 02-15-2012, 07:05 PM

Today was quite productive. I was able to get my front to rear hose split installed on the BRS. I purchased the kit from xtrememotorworks.com and it was as everything they sell, great quality and well put together and thought out. All of the T-s and adapters and connections were there. The only thing I might tell someone with a Super that is interested in the kit is to get the original kit with 48" hoses instead of getting the 60" inch hoses that Aaron suggested to use on the 1572. There was more than a foot of hose left on each hose to have to route, curve and zip tie, to keep from having things rub or hit the hoses. Also my Cat 0 plate did not have holes pre-drilled for the female couplers. Luckily Aaron sends a plate already drilled for the connectors in the kit to be used on the frame in the same fashion as spring assist kits. The problem I ran into was that I drilled my Cat 0 plate thinking I could just slide the connectors into the holes and use the snap rings to hold them in place. Well the Cat 0 plate is twice as think as the included plate Aaron sends meaning that I couldn't put the snap rings onto the connectors. After some head scratching my buddy and I decided it was actually better that they wouldn't work that way due to the fact it would be near impossible to tighten the fittings and hoses and install the snap rings. We decided to use Aaron's plate and weld it to the Cat 0 frame directly in line with where we had drilled the holes. This let the lines come out to reach the female connectors allowing a wrench easy access to tighten each line and connector tightly. Also the snap rings were a "snap"

to install. The rest of the install was actually the easiest part of all of this. Simply follow Aaron's directions and pictures and it is pretty much plug and go. The top connector on the control valve had to be rerouted a bit differently than his directions due to more involved wired and cables with the diesel. Also his directions used a 782 if I am not mistaken and looked to have a bit more room to work with in hose routing. I tried to take enough pictures, but am sure I could have done much better. All in all it is something most anyone can do especially if you don't have a Cat 0 plate. If you do have that plate, then you can either do the modification that we did or I am sure someone here can come up with and even better mounting solution. This just happened to work for use as we had all the tools needed including a mig. Also we ran the hoses from the back to the front doing the bottom hose connection first then doing the top hose connection.

Below are the pictures I took:

Bottom valve control connection should be done first

Top hose connection. Note that the new hose is routed to the front of the old hose to allow the T connector to not be in a bind.

We noticed there was not enough room with the lift arm shaft behind the plate to drill the holes one on top of the other, so we drilled side by side. After drilling is when we found out the female connectors were to short to be held in place with the snap rings.

Aaron's attachment plate welded to the Cat 0 plate to make the connector installation much easier and to allow easier removal and or maintenance.

The finished and painted attachment plate and connectors and hoses installed.

zippy1 · #2 02-15-2012, 07:12 PM

WOW DWayne, looks darn good from this end.
Hang the "PLUMBING" sign out front of your shop, nice clean job

MrGitrdone41 · #3 02-15-2012, 07:13 PM

Looks great Dwayne! It will be nice to use that disc with it.

_DX3_ · #4 02-15-2012, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1

WOW DWayne, looks darn good from this end.
Hang the "PLUMBING" sign out front of your shop, nice clean job

Well I appreciate the thumbs up. I think my next adventure with plumbing will be to put a 3 lever control valve in place of the OEM 2 lever. It would be nice to have seperate front and rear capabilities.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrGitrdone41

Looks great Dwayne! It will be nice to use that disc with it.

Thanks so much. The male connectors for the disc lines are on their way. Soon as they get here and the weather is agreeable, I should be able to get some video. Probably not of plowing but at least of it working.

EricR · #5 02-15-2012, 09:38 PM

You make me want to put that set up on the 2086 even more now.

Great job to you and your friend.

_DX3_ · #6 02-15-2012, 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricR

You make me want to put that set up on the 2086 even more now.

Great job to you and your friend.

Go get it. I don't think you will have a problem installing it. If I can do it pretty much anyone can. I think in actual working time not including BS time, it might have taken about 2-3 hours. The hardest part was removing the panels and tin for accessibility.

ACecil · #7 02-15-2012, 10:21 PM

Excellent work, DWayne! Thanks for your pics.

EricR · #8 02-15-2012, 10:36 PM

I would Dwayne BUT I'm looking at another

so $$$ is going to another project for now.

_DX3_ · #9 02-15-2012, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ACecil

Excellent work, DWayne! Thanks for your pics.

Thanks Allen, you know how Duke is, I gotta make sure he has pics to read. Ahem I mean look at.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EricR

I would Dwayne BUT I'm looking at another

so $$$ is going to another project for now.

Ahhhhh,,, interesting.

LiamD · #10 02-15-2012, 10:56 PM

Hi DWayne,

Thats a very nice job you guys have done on BRS. From looking at the photos, does your 3 point frame mount go behind the frame or on top of the frame? my 1882 had the 3 point on it when I got it. It came with the 3 point manual as well, and the brackets are on the outside of the frame. When I installed the 3 point on my 1572 I installed it as shown on the outside of the frame. Should the frame be on the outside of the 3 point mounts? and would this make a difference.

Thanks, Mike