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#1
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Well I got my 1872 running and mowed for the 1st time this season today. For those that have followed my bumps in the road for the last few months. It's nice to have it working again. Well sorta. In a thread last fall I mentioned that the troubles started when I stopped on the hill to get this pic.
![]() I was told that It wasn't sitting on the hill that caused the problem. Yes it was and I now know why. Long story short after that pic next time I used the tractor the engine was full of fuel and I've been chasing probs ever since. Fuel filled case blew the mainseal. I replaced with wrong seal and blew that too. So as of this week I installed a new fuel pump and a new fuel tank (critter chewed into it). I had already rebuilt the carb with a new kit and float. It was running like a top and having no trouble at all with the knee deep grass. Then I turned and headed down hill and heard a pop and lot's of white smoke and the engine died instantly. I was facing down hill. Couldn't even get the starter to engage. I pulled it back up the hill with the truck and swore I was ready to go by a new green tractor with a diesel ( yes quite serious). I let it sit for a bit on level ground. Pulled the plugs and turned it over. OK every thing looked fine. Got it started and after a couple of seconds the smoke cleared and all seemed fine. So I ran it for a bit then resumed mowing. About 3 times it acted up again. Every time I was pointed downhill with the right front wheel down. Seems that the float wants to stick open when the tractor is in that position. Not every time but randomly. Each time I turned the PTO off quick and throttled down. The engine then was able to clear itself and I could resume mowing. I got the yard finished. Pulled into the garage and shut it down. I started hearing a hissing/sizzling sound. I looked with a flashlight and OMG! The carb was leaking fuel on the hot block and sizzling it away. I quickly restarted the tractor and pulled it OUTSIDE away from the house. Turned it off and opened the side covers and turned off the fuel. Then I clamped the fuel line prior to the carb with needle nose Vice Grips. And there she sits. 1st of the week I will locate not 1 but 2 KOHLER carbs with the adjustable main jet. Then I will put kits in both and install 1 having the other as a ready to go backup on the shelf. Then I will take that total piece of junk Walbro carb and set it on a stump in the woods. Next I will take great pleasure in blowing it into the stratosphere with a 300 grain jacketed silhouette round from my 44 magnum Ruger Super Blackhawk!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Does any one know the Kohler part # for the K17 Kohler carb? |
#2
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I am pretty sure I remember Matt saying it is the #26 that fits the 10 and 12 hp K series motors.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#3
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Not to defend Walbros, but isn't a Kohler carb capable of having a leak? I think 5 out of the 6 I've owned had Walbros and never had a problem with any of them. DX3's 782 has a nonadjustable Walbro and that thing purrs like a freakin kitten. I will say though that the one I had with the Kohler carb was easier to get adjusted properly than the adjustable walbros i had.
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Adrian 2072 (789513) |
#4
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#5
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Mine runs smooth as silk as well on FLAT GROUND. But I've rebuilt it twice with new kits and checked everything I can think of and the float still sticks randomly in that position for no reason I can find. It looks like a new one when you open it up. Shafts aren't worn or anything like that. But most of the repair shops or Cub salvage guys I've talked to don't have much respect for that carb. I've thought about trying to see if the carb off my B+S 18 twin would work on the manifold. That carb has been amazing for 14 years with 1 rebuild. I might look closer at that tomorrow. As for the leak that may be because of overflow from the sticking float. Haven't pulled it back off yet.
But with the problems it's given me and the fact it almost cost me a New $1, 000 engine that only has 50 hours on it. I really want to see it when the MAG hits it! |
#6
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Hey Squatch, my 2072 works fine with the Walbro but I did ask the forum what Carter (Kohler) carb may be the best replacement. Matt said it has to be a 26, the 30 is too big. Too bad, I have a rebuilt one laying around somewhere.
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Cub 108 Cub 1650 Cub 1000 Cub 682 Super Cub 2072 |
#7
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I found a source and should have a couple of Kohlor carbs heading this way in a few days. I'm getting 2 and will rebuild both. One for the tractor and one for standby on the shelf. Parts tree price for a new Walbro is $260!!!!!!!
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#8
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#9
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Did some running today and when I came home I had a present waiting for me.
The Mail man had left me 2 nice adjustable carbs from a kt17 with elbows. I made a quick call and was able to pick up a float kit and a rebuild kit for one of them. I also picked up a new fuel filter, air filter, an in line fuel shut off, and an extra oil filter while I was there. Hopefully in the next couple of days I'll get the super back in business. The carbs both appear to be in great shape. One smells of fresh fuel and would probably bolt on and go. But I'll go through it anyway. ![]() ![]() |
#10
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Can't wait to see how things go for you...
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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