What a rag

[J-Mech]

You need to put the tins back on. They are for cooling.

Your exhaust pipe is too short, it will kill power. Better off with a muffler than that.

I think drilling that main was a mistake. Brian Miller is poor guy to get info from. It's about 25 or 30 year old info. Better ways of doing stuff that what he spouts. You mixed info from Kirk and Brian Miller..... should have stuck with Kirk, he's far smarter and a better builder.... but he does a lot of unnecessary stuff too...

1400 RPM idle is too fast, slow it down. 1K is not any too slow.

[twoton]

Yeah, the tins are all going back on, as soon as I get my new muffler. I just can't stand all that noise from that straight pipe!, and the exhaust and heat in my face, for three hours of mowing! The drain pipe for a stack was just a quick fix to keep me going 'til I could come up with another 100 for a new muffler. This is worse than a boat, it's like a hole in my shed floor that I pour money into. And I'm sure as soon as I put all those tins back together some little rodent is going to turn it into a Holiday Inn!! D@m little rat turd b@$t@rd$!!!,

sorry,..

thanks guys.

[twoton]

Finally got around to putting the tins back on.

And installed this OEM New Style CUB CADET Quiet Line Muffler (part # 951-3029) from here;

http://ccspecialties.org/engine_exhaust.html

Now I just have to make a muffler brace like this;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...131#post482131

Thanks Roland.

[twoton]

Got a surprise visit from Quality Control today...

[twoton]

So this list represents some of the items that I have purchased for the repair/upgrade of my International Cub Cadet 1200. I know many of these parts are available through various suppliers. I am not advocating one over the other. I think it's important to support the people that support this site. So, in the "for what it's worth" column...

Ace Hardware
Assorted fasteners
Paint
Thread locker

Amazon
Air filter K & N (part # E-4655)
Carlisle Turf Master 16 x 6.5 – 8 front tires
condensor Primeline (part # 7-01338)
Grote tail lights (part # 47732)
Metal valve stems
Points Kohler (part # 47 150 03-S)
Rear work light
Spark plug Champion H8-C
Starter relay ( part # 725-3001/925-3001 )

http://www.ccspecialties.org/
axle tube outer bearing (part # 941-0363)
axle tube seal (part # 921-0187)
carb rebuild kit (part # 25 757 02-S)
clutch throwout bearing (part # 941 - 3056)
OEM New Style CUB CADET Quiet Line Muffler (part # 951-3029)
Oil pan gasket (part # 235353-S)
PTO switch (part # 925-3022/725-3022)
rear end cover plate gasket (part # 350837-R3)
spring assist (part # PN/ IH-548380-R91)
thermal isolation gasket (part # 47-049-01)
throttle shaft bushing (part # 25-158-02-S)

http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html
blue spring
flex coupling disc page 4 on Cub Cadet parts, part # 722-3000, Yea, it's A RAG joint!
teaser spring part #932 3017
ball bushing part #941-3004

Ebay
Kohler Governor Gear Kit A-235743-S

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/
Governor gear kit
Governor shaft bushing (part # 23576)
Governor shaft (part # KH-A-235256-S)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins #91598A526
Vinyl door edge # 8451A47
Tie rod ends #4444T931
Clamp on shaft collars #6436K15
Spring Steel Round Shim, 0.005" Thick, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD # 90482A125

http://midwestsupercub.net/MWSC2015.pdf
Clutch friction disc, Kevlar/fiberglass item # KD

Cedar Rapids tire
4 bolt on 4"front rims

Napa
5 gallon bucket of hytran equivalent (meets or exceeds International B-6 Specification)

Northern Tool
4 bolt wheel hub
1" weld on spindle

http://www.tirechain.com/23X10.50X12.htm

Zach Kerber Machine
6 pin driver
Blue Spring
Drive shaft
head gasket, stock, 10 - 14 HP (part # KH-47-041-15-S)
Solid engine mounts

Quotes;

dvogtvpe: stockers need torque. more the better. all that torque is made down in the 2800 to 3400 range. so the thinking you will gain power by running 4000 is not true, set your governor to 3800 to 3900 and don't worry about it. stuff to concentrate on is things that make torque. compression, advanced timing , a good valve job to improve air flow and flywheel weight are common things that help with that. coils, velocity stacks , K&N filters really in the big picture don't do much of anything

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...3&postcount=68

j-mech; Checking piston to bore fit with a feeler (ribbon) gauge

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...530#post464530

[twoton]

Point of future edit?

or something...

[vr4Legacy]

WOW!

Just read through all of this. Thanks for taking the time to detail everything you did. I hope to not need to do this much work to my 1200 in the near future. I also liked the wooden jig tutorial. I'm not a welder so if I need to replace a clutch, that will come in handy.

FWIW Briggs & Stratton changed their recommendations for synthetic oils. They now say 5W-30 full synthetic is good for ALL temperature ranges. I'm curious to see how the 10W does for you. Since I run 5W-30 in both my Subarus, I used it on my push mower. I'm probably going to put SAE30 in the Cub for now though.

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/...ecommendations

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/...n-your-engines

[twoton]

Dang!, this deck's been makin' lots of noise. Guess it's time to get into it.

Think I found the problem... Figure if this is what one looks like, I better check them all out.

First I cleaned 45 years of brown crud from the "Water Pump" style spindles, spindle housings and spindle housing caps.

As one of the press in type grease fittings was loose, I used a 1/4" - 28 tap to thread the top of the spindle for a screw in type zerk.

Ordered one new ST-745 spindle (part # 741-3001).

And a few new 3/8" - 16 x 1 1/4" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts, flat washers, lock washers and hex nuts.

It 's worth pointing out that if there seems to be play in a spindle as it is mounted on the mower deck, the problem may also be a worn spindle housing (part # 903-0117) and spindle housing cap (part # 703-0115-0499). These items act as a "race" for the body of the spindle and may also need to be replaced.

[twoton]

Luckily there were no rust holes in the deck shell, just some surface rust underneath. Spread some POR 15 on the bottom;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2VVL0S...I1XH6J0POY1AWU

and some EZ Slide on top of that from Tractor Supply;

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...t?cm_vc=IOPDP1

Welded on a couple of deck wheel brackets that I got from xtreme;

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html

and bolted on some deck wheels, Stens part #210-169 Plastic Deck Wheel Kit ;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015MNGYE...BAM9FAH3&psc=1

Cleaned up all the rust under the plate and coated that area with a couple of coats of rusty metal primer, and then painted everything with some of this stuff that I picked up at Home Depot;

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleu...2830/100144785

Color was good and price was cheap!

Before I re installed the plate, I applied a thin coat of grease between it and the top of the deck shell.

[twoton]

It actually took me quite a while to figure out that the idler arm and the pivot bolt (MTD 638-04012A Cub Cadet Shoulder Bolt) were really two separate pieces! Really!?

So,.. center and cross drill. Tap and zerk!

Might help..