Front Axle Play On 1000

tpelle · #1 07-18-2015, 03:22 PM

I'm getting ready to start my Frankentractor rebuild of my old 1978 1000'. I have the solid motor mounts and the old-style clutch driver disc, and a 12hp engine from a 1200 of the same year.

I was looking at the 1000 chassis this morning, and I noticed that the front axle has about 1/8" or so of fore-and-aft play at the front axle pivot. Otherwise the rest of the steering is tight. I've never had the front axle out of one of these, and I do have a brand-new pivot pin to put in if I need it.

If I pull the axle, what am I likely to find? Is it common for the hole for the pivot pin to be hogged out? But that doesn't account for the fore-and-aft play, though. How much fore-and-aft play is "normal"?

Can this be tightened up with a washer between the axle and the channel that straddles it? What about running a large bolt through with a couple of flat washers on each side, and try to "squeeze" the channel tighter?

Or, on the other hand, since the maximum top speed is only about 8 mph, should I just stop obsessing over it?

R Bedell · #2 07-18-2015, 03:52 PM

First, lets remove the front axle and see what you are working with. Snap some pictures, post them here, and report back. There can be a number of different issues. Until we can see what is going on, we can speculate all day long.

Mike McKown · #3 07-18-2015, 04:24 PM

I have taken almost all the play out of the front axle by installing a new axle pin and also (just as importantly) inserted a very thin washer between the axle and frame.

The washers were purchased at my IH dealer but I can't give you a part number.

olds45512 · #4 07-18-2015, 10:32 PM

I replace all my axle pins with grade 8 bolts. I cut the head in half to clear the oil pan and then put it in and tighten it down enough to take all the slop out but not so tight the axle won't pivot. Once i have it set where I want it I then cut the bolt and nut enough to clear the mule drive, once that's done I put a tack weld on the nut to keep it from loosening. Sounds like a lot of work but with the proper tools It can be done in about 10 minutes.

sawdustdad · #5 07-18-2015, 11:34 PM

Usually, the channel the axle sit in gets spread apart. The pin does not usually wallow out the bore, so a new pin will tighten things up. And yes, you can squeeze the axle channel together, just be careful you don't squeeze it too tight or you'll have to spread it apart. BTDT.

I've also tried the shim method, which works OK, but is basically a short cut solution. However, I have not made the switch to a bolt to replace the pin. I think a bolt will wear differently since it's threaded rather than smooth, so you don't have the bearing surface you do with the pin, and this risks damaging the axle bore. I'd squeeze the axle tube and replace with a new pin. then forget about it for another 40 years.

BTW these pictures are from my 1000.

olds45512 · #6 07-19-2015, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

I think a bolt will wear differently since it's threaded rather than smooth, so you don't have the bearing surface you do with the pin, and this risks damaging the axle bore.

not if done properly. if you use an 8" bolt the shoulder is long enough that the axle doesnt ride on the treads, once the bolt is installed theres only about a 1/8" of threads in the bushing at the front of the frame.

Sam Mac · #7 07-19-2015, 07:20 AM

This is what they use on a Cyclops like a 1641,

710-3019 Bolt, Hex, 3/4-10 X 5.25 Lg GR5
712-3011 Nut, Hex Castle, 3/4-10
714-3001 COTTER PIN 1/8X1.5

I would think it would work on a 1000

tpelle · #8 08-01-2015, 07:58 PM

Well, just reporting back here. In the midst of my engine swap I figured it was never going to get any easier to see what was up with the axle. So after power washing the whole frame to get rid of 37 years of old grease, dirt, and grass clippings I pulled the pivot pin out. I seemed like there was just a slight bit of play between the axle bushing and the old pin that wasn't there with the new pin. So I just put it back together with the new pin.

It seems to be OK now. No more play!

Could it be that IH used a bushing in the axle that was harder than the pin? If so, somebody at IH was using their head back then, as the pivot pin seems to be the "sacrificial" part in the assembly, as well as the easiest part to replace!

So I'm good to go for another 37 years now!

twoton · #9 08-01-2015, 08:06 PM

Glad to hear it's all good. I drove the pin out of mine and pulled the front axle, it didn't come to easy, a bit of rust on the pin. Where'd you get the new one?

jaynjeep · #10 08-01-2015, 09:41 PM

It is quite common for the frame to spread.. I have seen a lot of pins worn but seldom the axle. Nobody ever greased them.
As Tim said, I like the bolt trick. That way it can't spread again..
A quick and dirty way to fix it is to use a large C clamp to pull the frame together and then tack weld the pin to the frame at the rear. If the pin ever needs to come out, just cut the tack weld.. done that before too.