1200 Clutch/Driveline

[Texas Blues]

Well guys, got some good advice here already on my newly acquired 1200 about the upper gill assembly. Upon further inspection of the driveline, I found that the clutch/driveline will have to be replaced. It seems that everything from the pilot bearing to the trans coupler is wore out.

I have learned a few things already upon reading up on the clutch assembly parts. I have also read that once the motor mounts are loosened/removed (also wore out), sliding the motor a little forward allows the drive shaft and clutch assembly to be removed more easily. My question is, once the motor is moved far enough forward, should the driveline come out without needing to remove anything else beyond the clutch/driveline parts? Will any of the roll pins have to be driven out on the tranny side to remove the shaft?

This 1200 will be strictly a mowing machine, so I don't need to beef it up beyond OEM, but any advice/links to additional info to on the driveline, would be appreciated, Thanks, TB

[cubby102]

If you slide the engine forward youvwont need to remove any pins just the bolts for the rear flex coupler

[sawdustdad]

You will need to remove the clutch adjusting rod nut (underneath, bottom of the clutch actuator arm) and the clutch actuator arm top pivot pin. The actuator arm will then come out with the clutch and drive shaft.

[Texas Blues]

Thanks guys, will be getting to that a little each night.

Are there places that sell a "shotgun" clutch kit that includes all parts (OEM will be fine) from the pilot on back? I can see that the flexable clutch drive plate that is bolted to the flywheel is cracked, the rear coupler is real wobbly, probably will need all those parts dang it. Its a wonder that this thing worked as good as it did, pushing in the clutch pedal though, made alot of extra noise and vibration.

I was also reading some posts about wore out drives shafts, and got a feeling mine will be wore out as well, guess I'll cross that road when I get there. Thanks for all the input so far, Im sure I will be asking more questions about this process, but will also read up on it and try to keep the questions to a minimum. Thanks, TB

[Texas Blues]

Got the motor off, and pulled the driveline out. My estimation on the parts I thought I was going to need is about right. I guess the previous owner let it run for too long with wore cradle bushings. Starting in the front, it needs........
Flywheel cup assembly
Pilot bearing/bushing
Drive plate
Teaser spring
Teaser spring spacer
Throw bearing
Release bracket
Clutch disk
Pressure plates are warped, (might be able to get them resurfaced)
Tranny input coupling and the bushing
Tranny reduction input shaft (the coupling was real wobbly on the shaft)
Driveshaft
I am probably leaving out more things I will need, but isn't that enough already? I priced all these things on only one site so far, so I'm basing the costs on that one place. I'm sure I will be shopping around, and would gladly take suggestions on sources for these parts. This will basically double the cost of the tractor, but I will have a better machine in the end.
Have any of ya'll had to replace all this stuff before at one time?
What is the reason for not being able to remove the driveline without moving the motor? Why did they not use a two piece drive shaft? Is it too much of a vibration risk, or a weak point? I haven't seen too many people talk about a conversion to a two piece shaft except for a pulling site, it looked like they had a 3" sleeve of some kind. Is this a good idea? Thanks, TB

[sawdustdad]

I had to replace most of those parts on my 1000. I made a new shaft out of 5/8 steel round stock. See my "deal on a 1000" thread if interested. I was able to keep the three pin drive plate.