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  #1  
Old 11-17-2013, 08:19 PM
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Calvins66Cub Calvins66Cub is offline
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Default 122 Updates: Seat & Wiring

Thought I had better give an update, been busy at work. I finally got a new seat, but then the kids lost the key (they found my hiding spot). I went to a few hardware stores ,but ended up at a locksmith shop. He wanted $25 to make 1 key. I said, "No thank you, can I buy 3 blanks?" I took a triangle file and guessed, and $3.50 later, I now have 3 keys. During the loss of the keys, I had some work to be done. I tried to hot-wire it, but the PO had poorly installed some butt connectors that came apart. Decided to completely rewire the whole thing as a result of trying to pull the key-switch connector out far enough to jumper wire it. Also, While I'm running new wires, I added a few extra for headlights. I plan to add a two-way switch to either run the lights in series (1/2 brightness), or parallel (normal brightness). On the rear I plan to add another switch for a tail-light that will be on or flash with a trailer connector to pull my trailer on the street (parade duty). I do not like crimp connectors alone. I prefer to solder and use heat-shrink tubing. Here are some pictures! Enjoy!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Seat.jpg (28.2 KB, 125 views)
File Type: jpg Key.jpg (13.5 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg OldWire.jpg (20.1 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg RegWire.jpg (25.9 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg RegWire2.jpg (24.5 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg S_G_NewWire.jpg (24.3 KB, 123 views)
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:20 PM
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Very good job on the wiring, looks professional and you took the time to do it right, its all in the details, great job!
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:27 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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If you wire your lights to two switches, in both a series, and a parallel, you better hope no one ever flips both switches at the same time...... or

Looks like a good job on wiring!
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:48 PM
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Great job and thanks for the update!
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Old 11-17-2013, 10:48 PM
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Here is the schematic to wire the lights in series or in parallel using one switch.
A little sloppy, but you get the idea.
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File Type: jpg LIGHT SCHEMATIC.jpg (7.4 KB, 100 views)
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:35 AM
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I want to make a new harness for the O I am working on. You give me inspiration. My friend restores old cars for a living and will have all the wiring and wire covering to match the old original look. The O is really simple. I wonder if IH included wiring for lights in the loom in case someone wanted to add lights at a later time. I will check my old loom and it should tell me.

You did a good job.
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:24 AM
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Nice wiring job
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldAndInTheWay View Post
I want to make a new harness for the O I am working on. You give me inspiration. My friend restores old cars for a living and will have all the wiring and wire covering to match the old original look. The O is really simple. I wonder if IH included wiring for lights in the loom in case someone wanted to add lights at a later time. I will check my old loom and it should tell me.

You did a good job.

Thank you! My harness appeared to be original 1966. No extra wires.

This is the conduit I used:
http://www.grainger.com/product/TECH...XW8?s_pp=false

I think the original harness used some type of asphalt coated wire loom.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:57 AM
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I find it hard to believe what some ask for a new harness like this:



$80 and more.

I guess that I am used to reading circuits/charts/and diagrams and creating it from my training in the Air Force. This would be child's play.

My son that was in the Air Force doing electronics and avionics is horrified when he sees wiring done wrong.
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Original, 109, a pair of 122s, 124 with power lift, 124 with creeper, 126, 147, 1050, 1200, two 1250s, 1450 Dual Stick , another 1450, two 1650s, Gannon Earthcavator, Haban sickle bar and a bunch of other things you either pull, push or hang underneath.
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2013, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldAndInTheWay View Post
I find it hard to believe what some ask for a new harness like this:



$80 and more.

I guess that I am used to reading circuits/charts/and diagrams and creating it from my training in the Air Force. This would be child's play.

My son that was in the Air Force doing electronics and avionics is horrified when he sees wiring done wrong.

That harness looks very correct. I am not too worried about being perfect, just functional. The only thing I did not do, that I still might, is add a large piece of heat shrink tubing at the end of the harness (where the cable tie is) to hold it all together. I have about $45 in parts in my setup, but mostly because I wanted several colors of wire to match closely to original diagram. The loom was $15 for 50 feet.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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