1811 Questions

Pucknut · #1 11-07-2012, 10:29 AM

OK the model number of this is 753754. It is seemingly impossible to find anything for this half of the the 1811 line.

1. Will both the 190-450, and the 190-451 snow-blowers work on this tractor?

2. What snow blades will work?

3 If anyone has a working 1811 in the lower serial number range, what 2 fuses (sizes) are on the dash panel. one of them is a 20A sloblo but I can not find data on the second, and I am guessing this is the fuse for the lights. (please correct me if I am wrong, and if so I will need the wiring to find the light fuses and wiring to trouble shoot that.)

4. Lastly, if someone can get me a pair of picture of the brake mechanism at the rear wheels, one with parking brake full on, and one with them off, so I know where my goal is to fix them, it would be greatly appreciated.

inspectorudy · #2 11-07-2012, 01:32 PM

I only have the one fuse on my front panel so I can't help you with that but the brakes are real simple. With the brakes off look under the left foot board and you will see the linkage to the rear brakes. It should be loose but not hanging down. Now tighten the nut on the linkage so that the linkage is just barely tight but not actually taking up tension on the rear brakes. Then set the brake pedal and re-check the brake linkage and also see if you can move the tractor. If you can move the tractor then you need to tighten the linkage a little more until you cannot move the tractor. Then release the brakes and check the linkage again to see if it is taught but not tight. That's all I had to do but then I didn't have any issues with the brake pads or rear calipers. You can also see if the two brakes are about equal when pressure is applied to the pedal. There is an adjustment for side to side. Good luck.

ajgross · #3 11-07-2012, 01:38 PM

Only the 450 blower will work on your tractor. The 451 has the wrong gears in it. A qa36a and qa42a can be made to work also. Pretty much any wide frame snow plow can be made to work also. You'll probably have to fab a lift rod though.

AJ

Pucknut · #4 11-07-2012, 02:51 PM

Thanks for the input... I did find a 'return' spring on the brakes that returns the pedal back up to be missing, hence the reason it has to be pulled up. Not that that makes any difference with no brakes (yet, I'll see what I can do about tightening those up later tonight.)
The second fuse IS to the lamps, out of curiosity I brought out the multi-meter and found 0 resistance from the missing fuse to the head lamps, now do I just want to yank that holder out, put an inline fuse holder in, and a light switch?
Decisions, decisions....

Next is there any hints/tips or removing the mower blades from the deck? Mine seem to be grime welded into place. So much so that on the one blade I tried, I got the nut to turn, but it turned the spindle as well... got some WD40 hopefully soaking into it, because these blades are shot...

ajgross · #5 11-07-2012, 05:06 PM

What is wrong with the fuse holder that it needs replaced? If it need replaced, you can get them at Radioshack for under $5. Also there is no need for a switch. The key switch is the switch for the lights. The first "On" position is run with lights. The second "On" position is run with no lights.

AJ

Pucknut · #6 11-07-2012, 05:46 PM

The fuse holder is missing the cap and fuse. So replacing it will be necessary, however I do not know the size fuse this would need at the time being. Was just thinking about a switch to have the lights off when I was busy doing day work, no need to burn them out running them all summer long doing the lawn. Use them when I have to plow/blow at 5:30/6:00 AM when I need to have the drive done for the commuter(s) to get out.

ajgross · #7 11-07-2012, 06:15 PM

You need to read my last thread better. The key switch is the light switch. If you turn the key to the first notch past off, it turns the lights on and the ignition is in the run position. If you turn it one more notch, it turns the lights off and the ignition is in the run position. If you turn it one more position, it is in the start position. So if you start it, the lights will be off. If you need the lights you turn the switch back one position.

Also, the fuse should be a glass 10amp fuse. If you have a slow blow fuse in the other holder, it needs replaced quickly! It will not protect the circuit properly. It should also be a 10 amp glass fuse.

ajgross · #8 11-07-2012, 06:20 PM

Correction. Looking at the parts diagram, the one fuse should have a 20 amp slo blo fuse. but the diagram also shows only one fuse and fuse holder. I know the wiring harness out of a 1810 and a 1806 that I have only have one fuse. you might want to check the backside of your pedestal to see if there are even wires hooked up to the empty fuse holder. If it does, the only thing I can think of is that it might be a really early 1810 and still using a sightly modified 682 harness.

AJ

Pucknut · #9 11-07-2012, 06:32 PM

Sorry, AJ, I misread that... ok no switch is needed...
Could be someone did a slight 'mod' on it, and now lost the cap and fuse that goes there.

Although I can and will be wrong, since I can't find any part lists or diagrams for this particular one.

Mod # 146782100
Ser # 2050601U753754

ajgross · #10 11-07-2012, 06:53 PM

Lets see if this works.