Are these the correct engine mounting farmes?

cdlong · #1 08-20-2012, 04:50 AM

I removed the black rails from my 1450. They do not match the rails shown in the thread for QL engine rail modification. As I have crossmember damage, I want to make sure the black rails are the correct ones to modify and reinstall. The rubber mounts and snubbers were at least 60% worn.

zippy1 · #2 08-20-2012, 07:59 AM

The black ones are the same as I took out of my 1650. I bolted the oil pan back on them to get everything evened up before welding in the cross piece.
I tried to put the cross member attached to the oil pan back in, and the hydrualic lines and bracket that holds the cylinder in are in the way. Only thing I can think of trying is to remove either the lines oe cylinder bracket to be able to get the cross member back in.
Sorry getting de-railed, but to answer your question, yes those are correct. Also notice on your black ones there is a notch cut in each one for the mule drive mounting bolts to clear.

samiam44 · #3 08-20-2012, 09:26 AM

What is the diameter of the holes in the cross-member. I guess I've got more wear than yours- mine, the top of the cross-member is missing aft of the hole. They are smooth big elipse.

Michael

cdlong · #4 08-22-2012, 04:47 AM

My holes measure 1 & 1/16".

zippy1 · #5 08-23-2012, 12:22 AM

I got a measage from somone in the know that my engine rails which are the same as yours are from a 82 series tractor. They maybe a little different than the originals, that's why I'm having a bear of a time getting them in with the cross member addition.
So I don't know now what to do. What about you, what's your ideas?

cdlong · #6 08-23-2012, 03:55 AM

I'll mount the rails, set the engine in, install the rear bolts so the engine won't wiggle too much,then jack up one side of the front so the axle can be pulled down. Then I'll fight the front mounting bolt, move to the other side and do the same. Thank God it's only 2 bolts. That's what I had to do to get the engine out. It's a pain, but can be done.

zippy1 · #7 08-23-2012, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdlong

I'll mount the rails, set the engine in, install the rear bolts so the engine won't wiggle too much,then jack up one side of the front so the axle can be pulled down. Then I'll fight the front mounting bolt, move to the other side and do the same. Thank God it's only 2 bolts. That's what I had to do to get the engine out. It's a pain, but can be done.

I can't get the rails back in with the cradel mod done. There is no way it will fit with the hydrualic lines. Try it once with just the oil pan attached, it won't go, no how.
I found it easier to remove the front axle to get at the engine bolts.

samiam44 · #8 08-23-2012, 10:30 AM

Can you add a picture? How does the hydraulic lines interfer?

I didn't have any problems removing the front bolts for the engine with a wrench. Just took a few minutes as you can only get a limited arch at a time. Could use a 1/4 rachet, but once they were loose, my fingers turned them out.
I jacked the frame slighly to provide a bit of front axle movement.

Michael

ClickClickBoom · #9 08-23-2012, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zippy1

I can't get the rails back in with the cradel mod done. There is no way it will fit with the hydrualic lines. Try it once with just the oil pan attached, it won't go, no how.
I found it easier to remove the front axle to get at the engine bolts.

I had the same problem and came to the same conclusion. Luckily with the engine out it's easy to disconnect the front hydro.

I guess that's the price we pay for dual hydro.

I would also suggest taking out the front axle. It only takes a few minutes and really saves the hassle of getting those bolts back in for the mounts.

cdlong · #10 08-24-2012, 03:52 AM

I can't help with the install yet. My ISO mounts haven't arrived. I have purchased 2 sets of gear drive wrenches, one straight and one offset. I'll take pics as the engine is installed.