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#21
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The HF purple spray gun came with a 1.4 tip. Not sure if different size tips are available. Read on this forum that a 1.8 tip is preferred for primer. Will have to check with HF tomorrow on the availability of different tips.
I appreciate all the comments and info. Hope, to hear from someone on the Sherwin Williams Cub 125 paint colors. However, I am starting to lean toward buying some Irongard since a gallon will cost me about the same as another quart of the Sherwin Williams. |
#22
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Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#23
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Tim,
Thanks for the info on the spray gun tips. I have four quarts of Rust-Oleum Clean Metal Primer that I bought when I was disassembling my Cub 125 and before I had done any study on paint. I have since learned it is preferred to use the same brand color base coat, primer, hardner, and reducer. However, if possible, I would like to use the Rust-Oleum primer if I purchase the Irongard paint. I would sure appreciate your (or any of the others on this forum) thoughts/ advise on using the Rust-Oleum primer. |
#24
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Not familiar with that primer but I will give you some info anyway. If that primer has a hardener then it's probably ok, if it doesn't then I wouldn't try it. I've never had an issue mixing brands but I can tell you that putting a catalyzed product over top of an air dry product is usually a bad idea, long story short the hardener in the paint may react to the primer and cause it to wrinkle.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#25
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The instructions on the Rust-Oleam can of primer makes no mention of a hardener so I will forget using the Rust-Oleum primer. Do you foresee a problem applying an Irongard primer with a hardener over the rattle can Rust-Oleum primer that is now on all the Cub 125 parts?
Sorry to hammer you with a lot of dumb questions but I need all the info I can get. You and the others on this forum have been very kind and helpful which I sincerely appreciate. |
#26
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Quote:
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#27
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Now that I'm at work I did a little research on paint price and here's what I found. A gallon of yellow in ppg is $356 according to the computer, that price is what it cost me to mix it in house so if you were to walk into a ppg dealer the price would be closer to $425 or $450. Just last week we had a valspar system installed, the valspar I'm spraying is much higher end than the valspar that comes in the case/ih cans. For me to mix a gallon of yellow in valspar single stage it's about $252 which would be closer to $300 from a dealer. These prices are just for paint and do not include hardener, activator and reducer, buy the time you buy all that your looking at another $100 to $150. While I agree with Jon that there are better paints available I don't think there worth all the extra money when your painting a garden tractor, these tractors will never be worth what you put into them so using $600 plus worth of paint inst worth it.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#28
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There is no question for a guy like me that your cost numbers sure justify using the Irongard paint vs. the higher priced automotive paint. Speaking only for myself, not only does the much lower price justify the Irongard paint but for a novice painter the Irongard paint as you have described is a more forgiving paint that is less complicated to use. It may not be as durable as the automotive paint but it sure has benefits that appeal to me.
The friend who purchased the Sherwin Williams automotive paint for me had an aerial spraying business with a number of planes, trucks, equipment, etc. I am sure he was very comfortable with buying the SW automotve paint because he had used it many times. Also, he probably assumed I knew something about spray painting which was a very bad assumption. I am researching the use of a hardener to use with the Rust-Oleum primer I previously mentioned. I have found a number of comments that indicate using a hardener with the primer is fairly common. I am going to check with Rust-Oleum Corp. for their guidance. |
#29
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When you find an answer to the hardener question please report back with that info, find out what hardener they recommend and the mix ratio. I'm sure that info will be helpful to others.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#30
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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