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  #1  
Old 05-11-2019, 02:59 PM
Jonjon431 Jonjon431 is offline
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Exclamation 2008 cub cadet LT1045 no spark

I just replaced the main wire harness and I was having issues with the park brake switch not letting the mower turn over. I bypassed the switch by connecting all the wires from the main harness in a bundle. Now the mower tuns over just fine and I am no longer getting the brake light but for some reason I now no longer have spark when I ground the plug to the engine. Any idea why this is?
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Old 05-12-2019, 07:38 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
I bypassed the switch by connecting all the wires from the main harness in a bundle
Confusing...!!

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  #3  
Old 05-12-2019, 08:04 AM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
Confusing...!!

Indeed...

You need to provide more information. Start at the beginning and give detail as to what happened in sequential order. Starting with what happened before you changed the harness and why.
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Old 05-12-2019, 01:01 PM
Jonjon431 Jonjon431 is offline
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So I inherited this lawnmower from my girlfriends dad, It wouldn't start at the time I got it so i replaced the carb and the fuel lines and it still wouldnt start, I then replaced the fuel pump and had it running well enough to mow our lawn once and then it kept on blowing fuses. I decided that i couldn't find where the short was so I purchased and replaced the main wiring harness. I couldn't get to the clip for the park brake safety so I cut the clip off of the new wiring harness and twisted and capped off the wires as they would have been anyways.It still wouldn't start so i replaced the starter solenoid, I then noticed it was having issues with the park brake sensor not letting the engine turn over so I did some research and realized that if i just took the five wires from the new main wire harness and connected them all together and capped them off that it would allow me to bypass the park brake safety. I did that and now the engine turns over but I have no spark from the plug when i turn the engine over and ground it on the engine, I also had an issue with my main ground wire getting extremely hot when it was connected to the frame and so I moved it and grounded it to the engine instead. I'm not sure why I'm not getting the spark necessary to start the engine and i checked in both daylight and night to see if I could catch any spark at all
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Old 05-12-2019, 03:30 PM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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OKay,

From the sounds of it, you have been cutting and splicing lots of things without really testing anything. You will need a test light or meter, you will also need the wiring diagram.

If your ground wire was getting hot that would almost always mean you have a short. I would start by reconnecting the harness "5 wires" you spoke of back to where they are suppose to be. You need to troubleshoot one circuit at a time.

Once you have the harness installed the way it is suppose to be you can start checking the electrical safety switches one by one.

As far as the short is concerned. You may have created this when you tied those wires together. You may have mistakenly tied in a wire that has power on it with grounds.
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:26 PM
ejl6658 ejl6658 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonjon431 View Post
So I inherited this lawnmower from my girlfriends dad, It wouldn't start at the time I got it so i replaced the carb and the fuel lines and it still wouldnt start, I then replaced the fuel pump and had it running well enough to mow our lawn once and then it kept on blowing fuses. I decided that i couldn't find where the short was so I purchased and replaced the main wiring harness. I couldn't get to the clip for the park brake safety so I cut the clip off of the new wiring harness and twisted and capped off the wires as they would have been anyways.It still wouldn't start so i replaced the starter solenoid, I then noticed it was having issues with the park brake sensor not letting the engine turn over so I did some research and realized that if i just took the five wires from the new main wire harness and connected them all together and capped them off that it would allow me to bypass the park brake safety. I did that and now the engine turns over but I have no spark from the plug when i turn the engine over and ground it on the engine, I also had an issue with my main ground wire getting extremely hot when it was connected to the frame and so I moved it and grounded it to the engine instead. I'm not sure why I'm not getting the spark necessary to start the engine and i checked in both daylight and night to see if I could catch any spark at all
Not sure what 5 wires you are talking about concerning the brake switch as there are 4 wires associated with the brake switch. I am including a link where you can get a wiring schematic for your tractor. The wires are colored coded and as Coop stated I think you need to recheck your work.

http://www.cubcadetpartsnmore.com/cu...ing-schematics
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:47 AM
Jonjon431 Jonjon431 is offline
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[QUOTE=ejl6658;482163]Not sure what 5 wires you are talking about concerning the brake switch as there are 4 wires associated with the brake switch. I am including a link where you can get a wiring schematic for your tractor. The wires are colored coded and as Coop stated I think you need to recheck your work.

The 5th wire is orange and black that runs from the PTO to the brake switch and is the negative
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:54 PM
Jonjon431 Jonjon431 is offline
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So I tested all the wires and they all come out ok, I tested the magneto and it came out ok as well. Spark wire tests ok for continuity but is not getting any voltage. Could the brake interlock switch be stopping the spark? All the wires are connected as they should be and yet the switch is still saying that the brake is not on when it is
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Old 05-13-2019, 08:31 PM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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So I tested all the wires and they all come out ok, I tested the magneto and it came out ok as well. Spark wire tests ok for continuity but is not getting any voltage. Could the brake interlock switch be stopping the spark? All the wires are connected as they should be and yet the switch is still saying that the brake is not on when it is
Did you jump out the switch ?
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:09 PM
Jonjon431 Jonjon431 is offline
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Default Final Update

Bought a new brake interlock switch today and replaced the old one, Just wired it in without actually bolting it down and the mower started right up. Mowed my lawn today and everything seems to be working fine
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