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  #11  
Old 07-17-2019, 08:26 AM
Higgins Higgins is offline
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Leroy, Sunrise Lake area
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2019, 08:28 AM
Higgins Higgins is offline
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Spending income? Taking back cans for 10 cents is funding this project... it helps I'm always thirsty..
Can anyone provide the OD of the Drive Pulley? Going to use a double V-grove to power a hydraulic pump as well as the belt to the starter/generator.
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  #13  
Old 07-17-2019, 12:46 PM
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cheesedawg82 cheesedawg82 is offline
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Nothing against adding the pump, but I'd hate to see you go through the time and expense without making sure you know that a lot of hydrostatic cub rear ends have ported pumps.

Someone's definitely going to chime in and correct me here, but any model ending in an odd number or 50 with a lever coming out of the right side of the dash tower is likely a winner. These rear ends are bulletproof and never fail, therefore they are readily available and dirt cheap. Some tractors are even set up with dual port hydraulics, complete with the valves.

Totally worth looking at if you're looking at spending money on a pump, valves, and a set of bigger front spindles, along with time fabricobbling it all together.
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  #14  
Old 07-17-2019, 01:33 PM
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MBY852 MBY852 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgins View Post
Good day and I'm looking forward to gaining knowledge from the best cub owners anywhere.

I picked up a hodgepodge of an old cub. The frame is that of a 127, the hood says 107 and it has a B&S 10-hp motor. I would like to bring it back to original (or close), add a front loader and use it clean out the stalls in my hog barn. I was at bone yard and found a K-241 (sn:C-195835 Spec: 46329D). I know the 127 came with the K-301 12-hp, however if my information is correct, the engine blocks are the same...? I acquired the service and parts manuals for both 127 & 107 as well as the parts list for the Kohler 10-hp that listed all the specs.
I got the Briggs to run and tested out the drive on the tractor, everything work good. Changed the hydro fluid and filter first off.. it was setting outside for who knows how long.

When I tore down the Kohler engine , it was obvious someone was in it before. The connecting rod bolts were loose and the connecting rod itself was not the same part number as listed for the spec on the blower cover ID tag. It was a 4705905 with a hole drilled in it and the crank bore was shot... the spec calls for a 4706702 connecting rod. The crank journal need turned and the cylinder bore needs taken out .010"-.020" not sure what I want to do. I'm getting windy here, so Ill get to the point.

Is there any way to identify the block other than the tag on the blower? With what I see, the blower cover could even be incorrect. I work in an iron foundry and know all about casting numbers and cast date codes, but cannot locate any ID on the block or oil pan.

Should I just go for the 241 rebuild or try and do a 301 12-hp out of what I have?

Some day I'd like my grand kids to have it as a remembrance of papap..

Welcome to OCC Higgins!

Have you searched on Facebook? You can find some pretty good deals on there from folks who just want to get rid of there tractors they'd lost interest in. There's quite a few in MI. Go to marketplace and put in your location and the search distance. I found this one that was just listed yesterday. A good deal with attachments as well.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...2361473470131/

Best of luck!
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  #15  
Old 08-12-2019, 07:10 AM
Higgins Higgins is offline
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Well, it lives... and sounds great, if I can keep it running. Fuel delivery problem, aside from that she's cherry....

On another note, the wiring heats up quick when wired to the regulator per the schematic, bypassing the safety switch and not lighting.... I'm running it on the bench before I make the transplant to the tractor. Specifically the wire coming off the battery side of the starter solenoid to the ignition switch (also bypassing the amp meter). If I eliminate the white wire from the regulator to the key switch, it fires up and runs good, however now the generator is not putting out. The regulator is brand spanking new. If I wire it per the schematic, there is function of the key switch and as stated before the wire from the key to the starter solenoid gets hot and will burn if I don't disconnect it..wish I could figure out how to add the drawing to this thread..
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2019, 07:47 AM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Higgins View Post
Well, it lives... and sounds great, if I can keep it running. Fuel delivery problem, aside from that she's cherry....

On another note, the wiring heats up quick when wired to the regulator per the schematic, bypassing the safety switch and not lighting.... I'm running it on the bench before I make the transplant to the tractor. Specifically the wire coming off the battery side of the starter solenoid to the ignition switch (also bypassing the amp meter). If I eliminate the white wire from the regulator to the key switch, it fires up and runs good, however now the generator is not putting out. The regulator is brand spanking new. If I wire it per the schematic, there is function of the key switch and as stated before the wire from the key to the starter solenoid gets hot and will burn if I don't disconnect it..wish I could figure out how to add the drawing to this thread..
Are you using an original VR? Or is it aftermarket? Many of the aftermarket VR's have the wires oriented differently from the original. Look for the stamping on the tabs to make sure it is wired correctly
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2019, 09:09 AM
Higgins Higgins is offline
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Yes, it's an after market and the terminals are not the same as the OEM, however still identified and I confirmed about 10 times it's wired correctly. Had my two sons who are mechanics look at it and they are scratching their heads as me! I'm missing something.

bench wiring.jpg

Yeaaaaa I figured out how to attache the wire diagram. The green wire wire from the regulator is white in real life...
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  #18  
Old 09-27-2019, 06:43 AM
Higgins Higgins is offline
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All is well, had the VR wired incorrectly. Terminal out the back was not the ground...live and learn. The 127 runs great with fresh 241. I put a scoop on the front for now, works great cleaning out hog stalls. Picked up a 128 with cracked block for $100.00 including a running k241. Everything appears to be in working order. Can anyone tell me if the M12 block and K301 block are the same and interchangeable?
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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