1730

[hogfly]

last week got a 1730 not running got it going but something wrong with choke cable under dash how do you pull steering wheel to get in it thanks all any help is welcome

[J-Mech]

Remove the center cap, remove the nut, pull the steering wheel.


I'm not all that convinced that the wheel has to be removed to get at the choke cable.

[hogfly]

thanks had to use puller for wheel thought i could remove dash but had to pull fuel tank, not to pleased with the plastic choke or the whole lt tractor but got a good deal 50.00 got 200.00 in it but everything works think i will flip this one for more gt/sgt tractors thanks jon

[hogfly]

ok got the 1730 running cleaned lots of new parts and work started with a 50.00 been in the woods for 10 yrs a jd with forks carried it out for me 350.00 in it now very nice now to the 46" deck very rusted little paint left stripped it to a shell today my neighbor is going to sand blast it need info on how to repaint it i will use cub spray bombs but more concerned about what to do after blasting and priming thanks all

[zippy1]

You do not have to remove the steering wheel or dash to replace any of the cables. Just pull the fuel tank, easy as pie.
What are you referring to when you asked, " sand blast it need info on how to repaint it i will use cub spray bombs but more concerned about what to do after blasting and priming"?
After that there is nothing to do but paint it... Reassemble the deck... OR am I missing something in you question?

[hogfly]

i meant like degreasing washing before priming saw on a post of people stating paint coming of in less than a year thanks

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by hogfly

i meant like degreasing washing before priming saw on a post of people stating paint coming of in less than a year thanks

I use lacquer thinner cause it's what I got, and don't do a lot of painting to spend money on the "correct" stuff. As long as you have the metal clean before applying any primer, you should be fine.
If you would like an experts point of view, contact Tim (olds), he's a professional, not a novice like me.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by hogfly

i meant like degreasing washing before priming saw on a post of people stating paint coming of in less than a year thanks

If you sand blast parts there's no need to wipe them down with anything as the sandblasting process removes all the contaminants, wiping down blasted metal is a no no because the texture of the metal will pull lint off the rag causing you to have lint in your paint job. Parts that are sanded can be wiped down because they don't have a rough texture. Paint won't stick to bare metal so you'll need to spray epoxy primer on first, duplicolor has a good spray bomb epoxy that I've used several times without issue.

[zippy1]

Originally Posted by olds45512

If you sand blast parts there's no need to wipe them down with anything as the sandblasting process removes all the contaminants, wiping down blasted metal is a no no because the texture of the metal will pull lint off the rag causing you to have lint in your paint job. Parts that are sanded can be wiped down because they don't have a rough texture. Paint won't stick to bare metal so you'll need to spray epoxy primer on first, duplicolor has a good spray bomb epoxy that I've used several times without issue.

What I meant Tim was getting any finger oils off before priming. That's why I wipe everything down with thinner first, then use a tack rag and compressed air.
After I sandblast I always go over the bigger parts, fenders, hood with sandpaper, that's just how I roll