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  #21  
Old 12-17-2020, 07:50 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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I put some hydraulic oil in the 1882 so I could assess it properly. Def weeping from the relief valves. It also tries to drive away when my foot is on the brake and the lever at neutral. It tries to drive away even more when I turn the steering wheel, and will change speeds when steering while driving. It's also generally a lot harder to steer than my 1772, which I can easily steer with one finger nice and smooth. The 1882 takes both hands to steer and even then doesnt want to swing the wheels around very fast.
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  #22  
Old 12-17-2020, 08:46 PM
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Sounds like you need to either get those relief valves rebuilt or replace them, as for the hydro it sounds like you just gotta adjust the creep.

http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html Not entirely sure but the procedure should be the same even for the later models as long as you have the Sunstrand hydro.

You say it likes to gain speed when steering, this is most likely due to not being enough tension in the hydro linkage. Somewhere there should be a nut adjuster that you tighten to put more tension on the linkage, to keep it from moving on its own and speeding the machine up.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #23  
Old 12-17-2020, 09:41 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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Do changes in hydraulic pressure (due to steering, or moving the deck lift) tend to push on the lever?
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  #24  
Old 12-17-2020, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daleag View Post
Do changes in hydraulic pressure (due to steering, or moving the deck lift) tend to push on the lever?
I don't think so, no. If anything it would slow the machine down due to taking some of the pressure away from the drive pump, but certainly wouldn't speed it up.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #25  
Old 12-18-2020, 07:34 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
I don't think so, no. If anything it would slow the machine down due to taking some of the pressure away from the drive pump, but certainly wouldn't speed it up.
Anytime one actuates the steering or spool valve on an open center system,
that closes the return-to-tank line and gives a little more flow to the other components in operation, as well as raises the pressure a bit.
Steering is always proprietary then other spools follow.
The charge pump is providing the hyd system with GPM's and keeps the drive pump charged.
The drive pump provides the hyd. pressure/GPM's to the drive motor and is a variable displacement pump controlled by the swash plate.
It is proper and expected to see a slight increase in speed when the steering is moved or a spool valve is actuated, noting also, when the cylinder that is actuated, reaches the end of it's travel, a slight increase in speed is also noted.
It would be my suggestion that the hyd oil and filter is changed before diagnosing further possible problems.
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  #26  
Old 12-18-2020, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Anytime one actuates the steering or spool valve on an open center system,
that closes the return-to-tank line and gives a little more flow to the other components in operation, as well as raises the pressure a bit.
Steering is always proprietary then other spools follow.
The charge pump is providing the hyd system with GPM's and keeps the drive pump charged.
The drive pump provides the hyd. pressure/GPM's to the drive motor and is a variable displacement pump controlled by the swash plate.
It is proper and expected to see a slight increase in speed when the steering is moved or a spool valve is actuated, noting also, when the cylinder that is actuated, reaches the end of it's travel, a slight increase in speed is also noted.
It would be my suggestion that the hyd oil and filter is changed before diagnosing further possible problems.
Very interesting! This goes to show how little I know about ported pumps

Guess you can't really blame me though because I don't own one nor do I really plan on picking up a tractor with one, but this is still good stuff to know
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #27  
Old 12-18-2020, 09:32 AM
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Everyone is born ignorant, we cure that with education, whether it is book larnin' edd u katio, or skool of hard knox, and usually both.
Ewe youngens' are lucky we have the' net and the world of experience is at our finger tips.
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  #28  
Old 12-18-2020, 12:28 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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Thank you for that info George, I had a feeling it was something like that. Your knowedge and experience is greatly appreciated!

I'm still not sure what I'm going to do with the 1882. I really like the way the 1772 handles and runs.
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  #29  
Old 12-18-2020, 05:09 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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Another thing I noted just now I'm not entirely sure what to make of. The 1882 seems to have WAY more power than the 1772, despite only a 1hp difference on paper. The 1882 flies up the 10% grade driveway pulling the 1000lb roller with the hydro full forward with some power to spare, while the 1772 lugs WAY down billowing soot and nearly stalling unless I back off on the hydro lever.
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  #30  
Old 12-18-2020, 07:14 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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it sounds like the kubota engine is not running right, basically the same displacement as the Kohler 1882 the diesel should have more torque then the gas - how old is your fuel filter? air filter? how's your electric fuel pump? and then lastly I would check the mechanical fuel injection pump.
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