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  #11  
Old 12-11-2020, 06:43 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Originally Posted by Daleag View Post
So it's not the pulley on the engine that would be different, but rather the one on the center of the deck? (I'm guessing the engines, running different RPMs, use different size pulleys so the belt speed is consistent?)

In that case, the 60c center pulley for a 1772 and the 60c center pulley for a 1882 are the same part#, so maybe I lucked out
Not guessing correctly.
Near all engines turn 3600 rpm's at full throttle which is the recommended cutting rpm's
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  #12  
Old 12-11-2020, 06:52 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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I thought the Kubota D600 and D640 turned at 3200rpm?
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  #13  
Old 12-11-2020, 07:23 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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Well I bought the 1882. Having a little regret about it. Found several cracks in the deck after cleaning off the grass and muck, but should be easily weldable. And it didnt make it up the driveway with the lawn roller, on account of it ran out of hydraulic oil sometime between now and the last time I looked at it a week ago. There's water condensation on the dipstick too. The engine is a little fussy with the choke, and when going back down the 10% grade driveway it just flat out died on me and wouldnt restart till I coasted to the bottom and fiddled with it.

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  #14  
Old 12-11-2020, 08:35 PM
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Well I bought the 1882. Having a little regret about it. Found several cracks in the deck after cleaning off the grass and muck, but should be easily weldable. And it didnt make it up the driveway with the lawn roller, on account of it ran out of hydraulic oil sometime between now and the last time I looked at it a week ago. There's water condensation on the dipstick too. The engine is a little fussy with the choke, and when going back down the 10% grade driveway it just flat out died on me and wouldnt restart till I coasted to the bottom and fiddled with it.

All the joys of a new purchased piece of equipment.
We've all BTDT.
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  #15  
Old 12-11-2020, 10:46 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daleag View Post
Well I bought the 1882. Having a little regret about it. Found several cracks in the deck after cleaning off the grass and muck, but should be easily weldable. And it didnt make it up the driveway with the lawn roller, on account of it ran out of hydraulic oil sometime between now and the last time I looked at it a week ago. There's water condensation on the dipstick too. The engine is a little fussy with the choke, and when going back down the 10% grade driveway it just flat out died on me and wouldnt restart till I coasted to the bottom and fiddled with it.

Coulda been a LOT worse...

IMG_20200521_195159.jpg IMG_20201005_161517.jpg
My 107 when I bought it was nothing more than a pile of pieces, 2nd pic shows the shredded metal I found inside the hydro.

Took a lot of work to finish my 107 but I stuck to it and now it's a nice machine. That 1882 actually runs and drives already, so you're much better off with it than I was with my 107. With a bit of work it could end up being a very nice machine.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2020, 07:55 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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How do you folk install/remove the 60" haban from your machines? When I picked up the 1882 the gentleman selling it disconnected it from the mule... then drove the tractor OVER the deck because it wouldnt fit between the front and back wheels. I'm sure that has nothing to do with the cracks in the deck...
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  #17  
Old 12-16-2020, 09:51 PM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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I believe the ones like you have (early haban 60") were made to be driven over. I think you raise your anti scalp wheels to the top which puts the deck on the ground - so it wont move when you drive over. I think those decks had diamond deck pully covers which can support the front end
I have the later model Haban - not built as tough - my anti scalp wheels all can be turned 90 degrees so it rolls under the tractor. I have a bumper (for when my snow blower is removed) - I find its easier to lift the front with the chain fall and then slide the deck under.
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  #18  
Old 12-16-2020, 11:00 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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Yep, I have the diamond plate covers. Guess I'll weld up the cracks and drive over it like everyone else!


Now I'm eyeballing the frame trying to figure out how to attach a mini loader to this thing without having to pull the mule off every time I want to use the loader... Not a lot of open attachment points up there.
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2020, 08:02 AM
spndncash spndncash is offline
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if you look at the manual for the danco 2000 or kwikway loader it attaches much further back. I dont think they made one for a SGT but you could mimic the design. my 106 has a loader and a mule drive - I dont have the mower deck on it I have a tiller. the lift arms/bucket come off easily four pins and four hydraulic quick connectors. Mowing with the bucket on would be a challenge on everything except open fields
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2020, 06:50 PM
Daleag Daleag is offline
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Something I'mma say for those reading along who have a SGT without the plate that wraps around the rear of the frame: GET ONE. My 1882 has it and my 1772 doesnt and the difference in stiffness is night and day. Oh and the 1772 has a broken transmission tab likely due to that extra flexing. I'll be upgrading the 1772 to the 3 point plate that grabs extra bolt holes on the axle AND adding the rear axle brace to bypass the broken tab.
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