Ross steering box rebuild

[J-Mech]

Well, looky there Vrobert, the pin doesn't bottom out at all! Not even close to bottoming out.

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Originally Posted by olds45512

If you put a column together without the cage i recommend adding an extra ball or two to take up the space, the column in my 108 doesn't have a any cage's in it and it's been that way for 6yrs.

Tim is correct. If you remove the cage, which you can, you have to make the bearing a full compliment bearing. (Add more ball bearings until the all touch.) If you don't, all the balls can pile up on one side and cause it to bind, or preload the shaft oddly and cause wear. Just add more bearings and it is fine.

[finsruskw]

Here's everything you need right here.

[brudder]

Am I correct that there's minimal benefit to installing a thrust bearing between the cam (part 5) and the nut (part 4) to make it easier to steer when properly adjusted because there is a bushing (part 9) on the shaft already? I've read about the steering upgrades for the Ross steering but that's mainly older cubs from what I can tell.

[J-Mech]

The bushings have nothing to do with it.

On the newer style of Ross boxes, no, installing a thrust washer there won't do any good. They use a shoulder bolt, so you can only make it so tight.

Is there an advantage to a thrust washer? Sure. One on the opposite side where the head of the bolt is would make is steer easier, but you would have to use shims to preload the thrust bearing. Shims would go between the shoulder of the bolt (11) and the plate (5). The bolt has to be bolted tight. But no one makes a kit for that. Just a kit for the other style box.

[Randy Littrell]

Originally Posted by brudder

Am I correct that there's minimal benefit to installing a thrust bearing between the cam (part 5) and the nut (part 4) to make it easier to steer when properly adjusted because there is a bushing (part 9) on the shaft already? I've read about the steering upgrades for the Ross steering but that's mainly older cubs from what I can tell.

I just opened up the box on my 73 and all I did was true the adjusting pin up and shorten it a little, then adjusted it and the end plate. Instead of a nice 605 bearing I added 2 washers that I polished up and greased to take place of the bearing. I did buy a self locking nut to do away with the double nut setup. Works very nice now. Only have less than a buck in the nut.




Randy

[J-Mech]

Double (polished) washers and nylock nut still does not equal thrust bearing. Bearing is still better. I really don't see any advantage to that over the "original" set up.

[Randy Littrell]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Double (polished) washers and nylock nut still does not equal thrust bearing. Bearing is still better. I really don't see any advantage to that over the "original" set up.

No, its not equal to a bearing. Its more like a bushing to a bearing. The two washers pivot on each other on their polished, greased surface.

Just trying to give a little help. It is better than original setup and its cheap. I can provide video if you need the visual. If you want to drop $10 bucks on the bearing, knock yourself out.



Randy

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Randy Littrell

No, its not equal to a bearing. Its more like a bushing to a bearing. The two washers pivot on each other on their polished, greased surface.

Just trying to give a little help. It is better than original setup and its cheap. I can provide video if you need the visual. If you want to drop $10 bucks on the bearing, knock yourself out.



Randy

You think two washers make it better than one washer? Just because you polished and greased them? If you say so.....

No, lol, I don't need a visual. I understand what you did.


It's $10. I'd spend it in a minute. No, I lied. I'd probably get it locally for $8.

Originally Posted by J-Mech

You think two washers make it better than one washer? Just because you polished and greased them? If you say so.....

No, lol, I don't need a visual. I understand what you did.


It's $10. I'd spend it in a minute. No, I lied. I'd probably get it locally for $8.

Not sure what size the shaft is on that but I'd say McMaster-Carr has cheap thrust bearings that will be much better than 2 washers. Ans just about as cheap as washers.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-r...rings/=1agqgv7

[brudder]

So I went to put this back together today. I noticed the grease is bridging in the box. I used a regular multipurpose #2 lithium grease. I don't think this will work.

I saw some guys use JD corn header grease. I was worried that was going to be too thin because the box isn't really sealed. I think the corn header grease is just a #0 grease. Is that what I need or do I just have crappy grease?