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  #1  
Old 12-12-2018, 11:56 AM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Default 105 Stopped Moving - Trouble shooting steps?

I feel like I just made a thread like this not long ago, but I seem to be having a different issue.

Was out plowing snow 2 nights ago and was going forward, went to go to reverse and nothing happened. Moved back and forth and got nothing. I checked the linkage from the selector back to the transmission and that is still connected. The driveshaft and sheer pin appear to be intact (this was my issue a few months back).

It does look like I've been leaking a small amount of hydro fluid. It is a bit dirty around some of the piping like fluid as been there. Would being low of hydro fluid cause me to suddenly lose the ability to move? I do have fluid, a new rear gasket and filter and was planning on changing that soon anyways.

My next step is going to be to split the tractor and take a look at those 2 pop-up things (forget what they're called) on top of the trans to make sure those aren't stuck. Anything else I should check prior to splitting it? Anything else after?
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Old 12-12-2018, 12:11 PM
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Looks like you pretty much got it covered except for the the leak, it may be the cork gasket between the pump and the trans case. I would change that while you have it split.
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Old 12-12-2018, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MiniXP View Post
I feel like I just made a thread like this not long ago, but I seem to be having a different issue.

Was out plowing snow 2 nights ago and was going forward, went to go to reverse and nothing happened. Moved back and forth and got nothing. I checked the linkage from the selector back to the transmission and that is still connected. The driveshaft and sheer pin appear to be intact (this was my issue a few months back).

It does look like I've been leaking a small amount of hydro fluid. It is a bit dirty around some of the piping like fluid as been there. Would being low of hydro fluid cause me to suddenly lose the ability to move? I do have fluid, a new rear gasket and filter and was planning on changing that soon anyways.

My next step is going to be to split the tractor and take a look at those 2 pop-up things (forget what they're called) on top of the trans to make sure those aren't stuck. Anything else I should check prior to splitting it? Anything else after?
Pop up thingy are called relief valves. I doubt that's problem, for now...... Did you check both ends of the drive shaft for broken pins? The other one at the pump end for the yolk.
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Old 12-12-2018, 01:30 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Did you check both ends of the drive shaft for broken pins?
Ditto. That has happened to me several times.

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Old 12-12-2018, 01:39 PM
Mudrig150 Mudrig150 is offline
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I
Was out plowing snow 2 nights ago and was going forward, went to go to reverse and nothing happened. Moved back and forth and got nothing. I checked the linkage from the selector back to the transmission and that is still connected. The driveshaft and sheer pin appear to be intact (this was my issue a few months back).
IF the driveshaft spins while the motor is running, and you have a leak it's most likely either the rear shear pin broke or the relief valve is stuck and leaking.
The 1650 I got had the relief valve stuck down bad, so it had the same issue as yours.
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Old 12-12-2018, 07:22 PM
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It was the dowel pin in the driveshaft up by the motor. Should have replaced it when I did the roll pin in the back. Glad it wasn't anything more serious/expensive though
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Old 12-12-2018, 08:36 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Good to hear you found the problem and got it fixed.
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:45 AM
MiniXP MiniXP is offline
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Any tips for getting the old dowel out? I've tried a hammer with a punch and an air chisel so far. Don't think I have really gotten any movement. Haven't pulled the driveshaft out yet, so that will be next, but not sure what I'd do after that. Briefly tried drilling it, but it seems rather hard.
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Old 12-14-2018, 09:30 AM
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Any tips for getting the old dowel out? I've tried a hammer with a punch and an air chisel so far. Don't think I have really gotten any movement. Haven't pulled the driveshaft out yet, so that will be next, but not sure what I'd do after that. Briefly tried drilling it, but it seems rather hard.
It's tough to get that pin out in the tight space on the tractor without the right tools. And it is important the shaft and hub be supported as to not damage the motor (crankshaft and flywheel). Having said that, sometimes taking the shaft out is the best option. Good time to get that oil leak fixed. As it was said before, the cork gasket is likely the culprit.
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Old 12-14-2018, 03:28 PM
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Best to remove the drive shaft. Last drive pin I removed took quite a wallop with a Big Hammer to free it. Sometimes a bit of heat helps. Just don't bend the shaft in the process.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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