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#11
10-03-2009, 07:12 AM
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The 122 is ready to go to its first pull.. I put in the engine that was in a 1250 I got for parts.. turned out to be a john deere K301.. decarboned, set the valve lash, new head gasket, custom header, set points... and put a new set of Deestones (10.50/12 23 ) from Tucker tire.
Last night I grabbed onto my old WWII genset and it dragged it around the yard no problem at all.. My 1450 wouldn't budge it. The only forseen problem now is clutch issues,as it slips in 2 and 3 when pulling hard. Seems crazy, it was set up and frozen solid when I got the tractor.. I guess it is time for a new stiffer spring and maybe a different disc...anyone got recommendations? It's raining here in NY today.. I don't know if the pull is still on.. I guess I'll find out when I get there.
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Quietlines and narrow frames, mostly projects but I mow with a 1200 and have a 122 set up for pulls. Wandering the country bringing towers to wind farms everywhere, and bringing yellow stuff home to Texas. Also into flatfender jeeps. 
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#12
10-03-2009, 10:31 AM
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Make sure you have your clutch plates trued in a lathe and just use a red pulling spring. A stock clutch disc will work fine, I have used that same setup for a couple of years with no slipping.
Randy
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2 original cub cadets  1 100's 2 149's 1 73 1 2182
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#13
10-03-2009, 03:15 PM
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The pull was a GO! ...the class I was in had 26 participants.. wow!.. Anyhow it did great.. for only having first gear. I had several tractors i beat and several that only beat me by 1/2 an inch or so. Of course I was off the win by 14 feet.....but I'll do better next year!
Lesson learned.. Set up like the winning tractor in the class and you at least will have a chance! Also lesson learned.. Hydro's CAN pull..there were a bunch there and driven by someone familiar with them they did well in the higher HP classes. There was a 127 there but I beat it hands down, so I guess 12 HP hydro won't cut it. Thanks for all the tips guys!
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Quietlines and narrow frames, mostly projects but I mow with a 1200 and have a 122 set up for pulls. Wandering the country bringing towers to wind farms everywhere, and bringing yellow stuff home to Texas. Also into flatfender jeeps.
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#14
10-05-2009, 08:57 PM
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SO far to date, i have done.
Steering repair Engine is in the shop for bore over .030 as last one was .020 with a ridge now so it needed it and was burning oil. milling stock head to .045 grind valves intake 30 degrees ; exhaust 45 degrees OH almost forgot to chamfer the ridge to smooth out the flow. cam maybe changing over to the 18hp cam for extended duration ground off crank threads and tapping with 3/8 1.5" deep for a fine thread bolt use a 21/64 then tap. Use a pilot starter hole with smaller bit first! Not sure if im taking governor gear out just yeat. Still do want to mow with it. Not balancing the crank to much $$$ really and not necessary if your not going over 4k rpms #1 tip! a nice paint job to help it fly down the track. Or do stickers. I hear stickers make it faster! lol. If you have external breaks make sure they are not locking or dragging anywhere. Have not done the carb yet and not sure i will at this point just clean it up. Port and polish is never a bad idea. But talked to some well known pullers and stated it isnt ever a bad idea if you want to do it but doesnt really help unless again running over 4k rpms and where an engine is running @ 40 hp. and every half inch determines the winner. Best of luck #2 have a sweet name stuck on the side of it! Im looking at 36" logs or bigger by 8 feet to pull out of the woods this winter for fire wood so im so eager to get my tractor running again.
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#16
01-06-2011, 12:56 PM
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100LL is not rated on the same scale as autogas. I believe it's pretty close to 92 octane auto fuel. It also contains a lot more lead than any auto gas ever had. Probably not worth the trouble and extra expense, in other words.
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#17
01-23-2011, 06:59 AM
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If you have an S/G, leave the mounting bolts loose, pull the S/G out to start the tractor. then push it back in against the engine, no belt drag. If you have a standard starter, unplug the regulator after starting. Set both valves @ .010.
I had a 122 puller, wish I had never sold it! Pulling clubs in my area all went under because of insurance costs. Still got my helmet. Ya just never know!
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Papaw 1984 CCC 582 w/ creeper, 42" blade, 44C deck, 220# wheel weights, 2 link chains & adjusters, Spring assist lift.
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#18
01-23-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC
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