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In the pic below, lets start with the red arrow. The lever the red arrow is pointing to is the governor control arm, and the holes in it is how you set the sensitivity of the governor. You have it in the most sensitive position. You don't want it there. If that's where is was, it was wrong. You need to move it out to the third hole from the end. Possible the 4th hole. I'm sure the manual states where CC recommends it. Personally, I set it where it needs to be based on how the governor responds. But the 3rd hole is generally where it goes. Move it there as a first adjustment. Moving to the green arrow. The lever the green arrow points to is the throttle lever that is attached to the throttle cable. There are several holes in this lever. You will need to move the spring to a hole that will allow the most consistent travel on the dash throttle lever. You want the dash lever to travel the full distance, and it make throttle adjustments throughout the range. No dead spots. This will be a trial and error. The blue arrow. The lever the blue arrow is pointing to is the other end of the lever the green arrow is pointing to. There are 3 holes in this end, and again, the cable can be connected to any of the three depending on dash lever configuration. You have it in the inner most hole, and that likely is fine. But depending on dash lever travel, you may need to move it. The holes in this lever, and the holes in the green lever are both trial and error and can be used in conjunction to get the desired throttle travel. Remember, this engine was designed to be used in multiple configurations, not just in a Cub Cadet. Thus the need for many possible set ups. The purple arrow points to the bolt that holds the cable down. You may actually have to loosen this bolt and move the cable in or out to get the lever to go to the highest/lowest setting. If the dash lever stops before you reach the top, but yet when it goes to the lowest setting doesn't fully slow down the engine, you may need to move the clamp position of the cable. The manual covers this. The link that "nophun" posted is a good manual to use. While it doesn't cover all the aspects I did, it does go over some of it. Read the section on your engine. Now.... on that mechanism in question, there should be a high idle stop screw adjustment. Now that you have had all this apart, you need to make sure that the engine is indeed reaching 3600 RPM. It may now be above, or below that mark. Just part of taking things all apart. You will need to check the high idle, no load speed with a tachometer. I cannot remember where the low speed stop screw is, but I thought it was on the carb. You may need to also adjust this. Surely, you know where it is or can find it. Make sure to properly tune the carb now that you have "overhauled" the engine, and had all this apart. Adjustments need to change. Make sure to err on the side of rich. throttle2.jpg |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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