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  #1  
Old 10-28-2018, 08:21 PM
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Default HVAC question

On a combo electric heat and a/c unit, what would be the purpose of a "evaporator motor"?

Down here the mobile homes are often equipped with an outside only unit that sits next to the house. It contains both the a/c cooling equipment and the electric resistant heating unit.
there is a 16" flexible insulated duct for the conditioned air and another for the return air.
This morning we switched it over to heat to take the overnight chill out of the house. It started to blow cool air but after a minute of blowing cold air it shut off. Digital thermostat just clicked twice every 30 seconds.
Turned breakers off for a few and tried again.
Thermostat just clicked again twice every 30 seconds.

I took the side panel off the outside unit, looking it over I discovered a disconnected yellow wire. Per the schematic it appears the wire should be connected to the contactor above it.
The schematic shows two yellow wires going from the same contactor terminal to what is called an "evaporator motor".
We had heat last winter but maybe that wire was not on good enough (push-on blade). Or a mouse decided to get in and play jungle jim.

Anyways I can see the power connections for the heating elements are very corroded. And inside the casing was dewy wet.

I am thinking the "evaporator motor" is to blow air thru the cabinet every so often to keep the heating unit at least moisture free and thus prevent corrosion??

Maybe, maybe not.

I reconnected the yellow wire and the results were "no change".

Maybe, maybe not.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:39 PM
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I started a new job today so am away from internet from daylight to dusk.
Here are so pics of the schematic:











The one yellow wire un-connected in my O.P. picture is going further into the cabinet and per the schematic goes to the compressor.
The connected yellow wire goes to the squirrel cage blower below.
As I physically traced it from the contactor to the blower
Which is blowing air over the heating elements.

The a/c is on and the squirrel cage blower is running. But does not the compressor need that yellow wired connected to get cool air?

That violet/purple wire left of the yellow wire on bottom of contactor goes off to the right and is wire nutted to the yellow thermostat wire and another yellow wire going deeper into the cabinet just like the yellow wire that is on the contactor. So that purple wire should also be considered a yellow wire.
It appears to be a siamesed terminal with another currently vacant lug.

But the schematic shows the yellow thermostat wire should be going to a high pressure switch.


Installer is coming Friday or so to look at it.
Easier to stay warm here without heat than it is to stay cool when it is hot, LOL.

So when I turn on the heat and set thermostat at 85 with fan on "auto" nothing happens.
But the squirrel fan comes on and I get outside temp. air if the fan is switched to on at the TS.

Thermostat has no batteries.

Something is not giving power to the heating elements or maybe one or more element is burned out and so none will come on.


Thanks for looking.
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Old 10-29-2018, 08:57 PM
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Double07, do you have the model number of the Goodman unit? I can't see your schematic good enough and I don't see the heat portion of it.
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:08 PM
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Hello Oak,
I think maybe the heat schematic is also plastered inside the access panel. But it is all now buttoned up for the night.
I will see if it is and post a picture of it tomorrow around 6pm.

The model number is GPC1424H41EC

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2018, 09:56 PM
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On a call for heat you should be getting 24-28 volts on the white & blue wires in the junction box where the thermostat wires come in the unit. If you are getting 24-28 volts there then it is something in the unit if not then it is external of the unit. I would check that first and report back.


FYI
It looks like you have an EEM motor in that unit. That is basically a 3 phase brushless motor that has 5 speeds depending on what 24 volt wire is energized on the terminals 1-5 on the plug on the motor.
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:39 PM
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Double O I see where Todd are going on this and will stay out of the equation after this but I will say a couple things.

#1 be very mindful of the high voltage that’s in this panel obviously. The 24v AC control to the contactor coil won’t hurt you but the 240 around it will.

#2 I would turn off system power at the breaker and check it and verify that it’s dead. Then clean those corroded connections you said you found at the heater coils.
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:43 PM
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okay, here is what I get...........
Set the TS to heat, cranked up high.
Get 0 vac between pins #4 and 6.
Pull plug apart and I then get 28vac between the pins #4 and 6.
And then after say 20 seconds the upstream squirrel cage blower comes on.
Plug it back together and blower go off after 20 seconds.

I also measured the incoming voltage to the heater contactor M2/M4 and get 247vac there.

Contactor for heater is bad/corroded up inside?
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Old 10-30-2018, 06:53 PM
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Thanks Alvy,
Do not worry I am aware of live voltages in there. My hair is curly enough already!
The corroded parts are really the fasteners used to hold the heaters in place.
The wire connections look good compared to the cheap cad plated fasteners.

Had heat last winter and a/c all summer.
Now have a/c as normal and this no heat problem.
And no, nobody has been inside the cabinet changing anything.
I opened it up to find that one yellow wire not connected and jumped on that as being the culprit.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:07 PM
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I'm pretty sure you don't have an outdoor thermostat being that your unit is not a heat pump and only electric heat.

Do you have 24 volts at the blue & white wires where the thermostat connects to the unit?
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
I'm pretty sure you don't have an outdoor thermostat being that your unit is not a heat pump and only electric heat.

Do you have 24 volts at the blue & white wires where the thermostat connects to the unit?
Yes, and I get the 28 vac at blue and white wires upstream of the 9 pin plug IF I pull the plug apart. Plug it together and I get zero volts at the plug.
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