Putting a 1872 3pt hitch on my IH 982.

[NascarFastcar]

I acquired a complete 3pt assembly off a 1782.
I took it all apart to start the cleaning process to be sand blasted then repainted.
My only question is about the hitch plate that bolts to the rear cover. Obviously this hitch came off a aluminum rear end and it needs to go on my cast rear. The plate has 5 holes while my current plate has 3.
I would like to figure out the right bolt pattern that before I go into sanding.
I attached a picture below holding the 3pt plate besides my current rear end.
Would I keep the top two holes and redrill the bottom center. Or do I keep the bottom center and redrill the two tops?

[R Bedell]

The ONLY way to make your situation work, is custom fabricate. The 3 PT that came off the 1782 was only applicable to the CCC built 982 with the aluminum rear end.

[NascarFastcar]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

The ONLY way to make your situation work, is custom fabricate. The 3 PT that came off the 1782 was only applicable to the CCC built 982 with the aluminum rear end.

I understand that. But everyone else lines up. The top link assembly lines up with the bolt holes in the frame and top of the axel tubes.
For what I can measure it looks like I can keep the top two holes but would have to redrill the bottom middle.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by NascarFastcar

I understand that. But everyone else lines up. The top link assembly lines up with the bolt holes in the frame and top of the axel tubes.
For what I can measure it looks like I can keep the top two holes but would have to redrill the bottom middle.

What do you mean by" But everyone else lines up"
Just drill the holes where you want as it is a custom situation.
And what ever you do, do not put bolts in the cast iron hydro that are too long
as you will break the bottom out of the blind holes then you have a real big problem.

[Farmall450]

I would be more concerned getting it at the right level than keeping holes. As others have said, it's steel, so holes can come and go.

[NascarFastcar]

Originally Posted by ol'George

What do you mean by" But everyone else lines up"
Just drill the holes where you want as it is a custom situation.
And what ever you do, do not put bolts in the cast iron hydro that are too long
as you will break the bottom out of the blind holes then you have a real big problem.

I'm talking about the top of the 3 point lines up with the 5 holes used on each side of the frame. One of the holes being one that goes thru the frame and into the rear end...
I was concerned about reusing the bolt that goes into the rear because you adding another 1/4 of steel. And I wasn't tonsure if I should go longer or keep the same size bolt...

But for the lowest parts that connect the lift arms to the bottom of the axel tubes all 6 of those bolts are the same size. Now I wasn't to sure if the 982 had two different size axel tube bolts being that one tube is offset vs the other.

[NascarFastcar]

Originally Posted by Farmall450

I would be more concerned getting it at the right level than keeping holes. As others have said, it's steel, so holes can come and go.

That's what I figured I'm going to have to do. Till I get all the too parts one and hang the pto.plate I cannot really tell.
The top two holes that are drilled on the plate are are 5-11/16 om center while the bolt holes are the bottom of the 982 are 5-1/2.
I'm just gonna have to see where it lands with everyone else... everything can be welded up and redone lol.

[NascarFastcar]

So I had time to work on it. I got the bracket to the frame painted and the brackets for the arms mounted.
I did a quick measurement early on and had to slot the top holes to 5 1/2 inches and redrill a new center.
Now that I have the back plate hooked up I was off by 3/16 of a inch on the holes. Nothing a carbite bit can't fix.

[NascarFastcar]

Got it all together. Just have to figure out the toplink bracket...

[Farmall450]

Originally Posted by NascarFastcar

Got it all together. Just have to figure out the toplink bracket...

We need pics.