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#21
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Had not put much thought into why the hydros are not painted till you
mentioned it. I will take a shot at it. Is it for heat dissipation in the pump. Ken |
#22
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Back in the days of pan head kick start Harleys, there was a debate as to painting the
heads/jugs or leaving them unpainted for better heat dissipation. I think it still debated today, with just as much beer consumed. It would be my though that unpainted and rough sand blasted, would allow for more surface area to dissipate heat. Then some began to use wrinkle paint, while somewhat insulating, gave a better aesthetical look AND allowed cooling. Me? hell it don't matter as long as the fins can be seen, it is clean enough. I doubt one will see the critical temps that would cause problems on these old Klub hydro's. |
#23
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Paint on cooling fins has been discussed here before so I am not going to express yet another opinion nor hijack this thread, but if you have trouble getting to sleep and really want to know you can read this https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/nb...cpaperT254.pdf or you can google the subject to find thousands of links that will tell you the same thing and come to your own conclusion.
If you are already fast asleep here is what the research conclusion is "The experiment with the Melloni cube has, therefore, two important applications, depending whether it is desired to (1) decrease or (2) increase the process of heat radiation; and it may- be enunciated, as a general principle, that clean, bright surfaces of all metals or paints of metal flakes decrease the intensity of thermal radiation (are poor radiators; that is, have a low emis- sivity), while the nonmetals, or paints of nonmetals (oxides, oxidized metal surfaces, etc.) facilitate or increase the rate of heat radiation." As a moron in a big white house says "Follow the Science" and don't believe the rumor mongers! |
#24
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Iron Man, I am just nerdy enough about some things that I did enjoy
reading through this and did not fall asleep. Thanks for the link. You sent it for free. This would have cost me a nickel to get in 1924. My general conclusion was not necessarily arrived at from the article but from just looking at these tractors we work on. They get really hot and it causes lots of problems when they are covered in several inches of goo from years of neglect. It always makes happy when I get them cleaned up and know the are running cooler. Thanks Ken |
#25
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Quote:
__________________
Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall? 1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck |
#26
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Morning All. Sat down yesterday with a fairly large list of gaskets and seals.
Not quite sure how far to go with it as it was impossible to know exactly what was leaking initially. Way to messy under there to tell. Does a guy replace all the hydro seals etc. etc. even though he is not sure they are bad? The real question however is this. Where I looked for parts mainly on Cubs site or CCS. No one seems to have all the parts, just a piece here and there. Looks like it will be more money in shipping then in parts almost. Is there a place out there that you are familiar with that would be worth checking out for these parts? Engine gaskets seem pretty easy to come up with but I am looking at all seals and gaskets for the hydro and rear end. Thanks again. Ken |
#27
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Probably best to order a complete kit from a hydraulics dealer that offers Sundstrand. Google Sundstrand U15 and go from there. Sites should show up. They've changed hands a few times since then, but will still be stocked.
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#28
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Power wash or clean the hydro in some way, let dry and douse the suspect areas with some baby/talcum powder, run a bit and wait. The leaks will leave a trail in the powder and point right to the affected areas where the leaks are.
My bets are on the cork gasket as the major culprit. |
#29
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After spending a quite a few days just letting things soak and scrubbing,
lots of elbow grease. Have got this rear end ready to start replacing gaskets and seals. Plan for today is replace the cork gasket and get the hydro valves boxed up and ready to go to Mark at Machtech. Sure would have been nice to pressure wash this instead of just working on the bench. Something about 25 below that makes a guy shy away from playing in the water. Also pondering how I am going to fix the grooves worn in the cam bracket by the springs. When I don't weld.DSCN1903.jpg DSCN1905.jpg Ken |
#30
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Too bad we are so far apart. I would gladly weld anything of your needs in exchange for you cleaning my parts to make them look like that.
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