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  #21  
Old 12-23-2021, 09:39 PM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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Had not put much thought into why the hydros are not painted till you
mentioned it. I will take a shot at it. Is it for heat dissipation in the pump.

Ken
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  #22  
Old 12-24-2021, 08:53 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Back in the days of pan head kick start Harleys, there was a debate as to painting the
heads/jugs or leaving them unpainted for better heat dissipation.
I think it still debated today, with just as much beer consumed.

It would be my though that unpainted and rough sand blasted, would allow for more surface area to dissipate heat.
Then some began to use wrinkle paint, while somewhat insulating, gave a
better aesthetical look AND allowed cooling.
Me?
hell it don't matter as long as the fins can be seen, it is clean enough.
I doubt one will see the critical temps that would cause problems on
these old Klub hydro's.
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  #23  
Old 12-25-2021, 11:10 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Paint on cooling fins has been discussed here before so I am not going to express yet another opinion nor hijack this thread, but if you have trouble getting to sleep and really want to know you can read this https://nvlpubs.nist.gov/nistpubs/nb...cpaperT254.pdf or you can google the subject to find thousands of links that will tell you the same thing and come to your own conclusion.

If you are already fast asleep here is what the research conclusion is

"The experiment with the Melloni cube has, therefore, two
important applications, depending whether it is desired to (1)
decrease or (2) increase the process of heat radiation; and it may-
be enunciated, as a general principle, that clean, bright surfaces
of all metals or paints of metal flakes decrease the intensity of
thermal radiation (are poor radiators; that is, have a low emis-
sivity), while the nonmetals, or paints of nonmetals (oxides,
oxidized metal surfaces, etc.) facilitate or increase the rate of
heat radiation."

As a moron in a big white house says "Follow the Science" and don't believe the rumor mongers!
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  #24  
Old 12-28-2021, 11:23 AM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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Iron Man, I am just nerdy enough about some things that I did enjoy
reading through this and did not fall asleep. Thanks for the link. You sent it
for free. This would have cost me a nickel to get in 1924.

My general conclusion was not necessarily arrived at from the article but
from just looking at these tractors we work on. They get really hot and it
causes lots of problems when they are covered in several inches of goo from
years of neglect. It always makes happy when I get them cleaned up and
know the are running cooler. Thanks

Ken
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  #25  
Old 12-28-2021, 11:38 AM
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Farmall450 Farmall450 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
Back in the days of pan head kick start Harleys, there was a debate as to painting the
heads/jugs or leaving them unpainted for better heat dissipation.
I think it still debated today, with just as much beer consumed.

It would be my though that unpainted and rough sand blasted, would allow for more surface area to dissipate heat.
Then some began to use wrinkle paint, while somewhat insulating, gave a
better aesthetical look AND allowed cooling.
Me?
hell it don't matter as long as the fins can be seen, it is clean enough.
I doubt one will see the critical temps that would cause problems on
these old Klub hydro's.
There's always brake caliper paint
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  #26  
Old 12-30-2021, 08:52 AM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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Morning All. Sat down yesterday with a fairly large list of gaskets and seals.
Not quite sure how far to go with it as it was impossible to know exactly
what was leaking initially. Way to messy under there to tell. Does a guy
replace all the hydro seals etc. etc. even though he is not sure they are bad?
The real question however is this. Where I looked for parts mainly on Cubs
site or CCS. No one seems to have all the parts, just a piece here and there.
Looks like it will be more money in shipping
then in parts almost. Is there a place out there that you are familiar with
that would be worth checking out for these parts?
Engine gaskets seem pretty easy to come up with but I am looking at all
seals and gaskets for the hydro and rear end. Thanks again.

Ken
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  #27  
Old 12-30-2021, 09:36 AM
Ambush Ambush is online now
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Location: British Columbia
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Probably best to order a complete kit from a hydraulics dealer that offers Sundstrand. Google Sundstrand U15 and go from there. Sites should show up. They've changed hands a few times since then, but will still be stocked.
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  #28  
Old 12-30-2021, 10:52 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Power wash or clean the hydro in some way, let dry and douse the suspect areas with some baby/talcum powder, run a bit and wait. The leaks will leave a trail in the powder and point right to the affected areas where the leaks are.

My bets are on the cork gasket as the major culprit.
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  #29  
Old 01-01-2022, 10:56 AM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
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After spending a quite a few days just letting things soak and scrubbing,
lots of elbow grease. Have got this rear end ready to start replacing gaskets
and seals. Plan for today is replace the cork gasket and get the hydro valves
boxed up and ready to go to Mark at Machtech.
Sure would have been nice to pressure wash this instead of just working
on the bench. Something about 25 below that makes a guy shy away
from playing in the water. Also pondering how I am going to
fix the grooves worn in the cam bracket by the springs. When I don't weld.DSCN1903.jpg

DSCN1905.jpg
Ken
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  #30  
Old 01-01-2022, 11:33 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Too bad we are so far apart. I would gladly weld anything of your needs in exchange for you cleaning my parts to make them look like that.
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