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#11
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I usually pull up the PDF on my laptop and have it in front of me in the shop to follow.
Pictures are much better in that than when printed as they lose all their detail. |
#12
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After spending a few days out with the Black Powder gun it was time
to get back in the shop. I got the engine 95% tore down and am real pleased with how she looks on the inside. No big scratches on the crank no obvious damage. Did not put the mic on anything but hope springs eternal. Couple a questions for the group. 1) Is the dipstick tube just pressed in? Can you just tap it out from the inside or twist on it or what? I didn't get to feisty with it till I knew. 2) Is the stop pin for the governor threaded? I assumed it was because it has a phillips head on it but I can't get er loosened up. Will work on it again tomorrow. Does the governor shaft get pulled out from the outside or does it come out from inside the block? thanks for the help. Hope you all are doing well and enjoying the snow. KenDSCN1817.jpg DSCN1819.jpg |
#13
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I think the dipstick tube is pressed in but don't know for sure since I've never needed to remove one. The governor stop pin is indeed threaded, and the governor shaft comes out from the inside of the block, as because of its tab, cannot fit through the hole where the securing nut screws into.
and snow?? what snow? all we got here currently is rain!
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#14
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The stop pin can be a bit stubborn to remove, especially since it has a phillips head. A couple of quick, light raps on the screw head with a ball peen hammer shocked mine loose, and it threaded right out.
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#15
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Don't lose the copper gasket under that screw, I do not think it is included in the gasket set.
And don't lose the shim BEHIND the governor itself when removing it. It is the first thing in when starting re-assembly and the last thing out. Also, do not lose the shims from the Cam shaft pin and be sure and remove it the right way as instructed in the manual as it only goes in and out ONE way. Lastly, static time the engine when re-assembled while it's on the bench. Good luck! |
#16
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Good call Rusty. Here I was wrestling with that Phillips afraid I was gonna
strip it out. Tap Tap and here it comes not problem. Thanks I had read about the shims before I pulled it apart but was grateful for the reminder. I am a guy who learns by repetition for sure. And a good picture or drawing for sure. Thanks Ken |
#17
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Am sure having a swell time learning on this project. Today I was able
figure out how the ACR works on these cam shafts. I had a vague idea but it sure helps to have one on the bench to play with. Pretty cool. Put the mic to a whole bunch of stuff. It is really good shape I believe. Except for that one scratch in the cylinder. And the whack to the top of the piston somewhere down the line. Pretty good idea that my compression and smoking issue was the top ring that was broken. In looking at the driveshaft the hole for the pin is pretty beat up. Previous guy had hose clamp around it. Got it hand it to him, it worked. Figuring it means a new drive shaft, is that true? KenDSCN1842.jpg DSCN1839.jpg |
#18
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Yep! You need a new one for sure!
And maybe even a new coupler by the looks of that end of the shaft, as it looks to be be well worn as well. I'd replace 'em both as the issue will only get worse. BTW Same shaft as used here 105 107 2050038U 123 125 127 2050040U 147 2050041U 2050203U |
#19
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Been a few since I checked in on this one. Engine is out for machine work.
Split the tractor today. It wasn't quite a mysterious a project as I had always figured. Pretty fun actually. Looks to me like everywhere there is a seal or a gasket it has been leaking. I figure it all gets replaced since I'm rolling on it. When I drained the rear end and had a look at the insides it was really pretty clean which pleased me for sure. Will spend the time while waiting for parts, cleaning parts. Which is oddly enough a job I enjoy. It is the kinda job you can just check all the things a guy thinks about but really doesn't need to at the door.. Just clean and daydream. Unfortunately not a good time a year to pressure wash so it all gets done on the bench. Do you suppose the previous guy ran out of time to work on the leaks. His fix didn't quite work but maybe it slowed things down. . DSCN1863.jpg DSCN1872.jpg DSCN1878.jpg Ken |
#20
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Yup! That's the way most of them look after 30-40 years or even worse!
Notice the fins on the hydro are not painted?? There is a reason for that you know!! Good luck with the cleanup. I have used mineral spirits in a spray bottle and a parts cleaning brush w/good results while on the bench, that is after most of the bug chunks are removed. Put a drain pan underneath on some cardboard to lessen the mess. |
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