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  #11  
Old 06-02-2018, 06:44 PM
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m67tang m67tang is offline
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Originally Posted by john hall View Post
I thought you could roll the rear out and flip it up with the pump on top and change the gasket with the rear still full of fluid? Least that's how I think I've done it before. Regardless, I'd pull the tunnel cover give it a bath and go in the house. When its clean and dry you should be able to find all the leaks and determine how many of them are worth the headache. By the way, now is a perfect time to address trunnion wear and check the condition of the driveshaft at each end.
I’m such a newbie I don’t know what a trunnion is. I have a feeling I might learn. I can definitely do the “ clean it up, dry it up, find the leak without the tunnel cover on it” part.
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  #12  
Old 06-02-2018, 07:27 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by john hall View Post
I thought you could roll the rear out and flip it up with the pump on top and change the gasket with the rear still full of fluid?
Yes, I suppose that you can. But unless the fluid is new, it's a good time to change it.
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  #13  
Old 06-03-2018, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by m67tang View Post
I’m such a newbie I don’t know what a trunnion is. I have a feeling I might learn. I can definitely do the “ clean it up, dry it up, find the leak without the tunnel cover on it” part.
Basically all the "full size" hydro Cadets suffer from wear an tear of the trunnion. This more or less is the external components that help with smoother starts and maintaining constant speed. My analysis of it function may be off a bit, but that's pretty much what it does. There are a couple springs and pins that get worn/broke/disappear. $25 will buy all 4 from a dealer (I think). Thing is you have to have the rear out to change them. Very simple with the rear out. Then comes the wear and tear. The slot these fit in gets worn really bad to the point it sometimes needs attention. Also shim washers are used to take up wear. Its just a good topic to read up on, Several folks here have posted about their adventures repairing these. Not saying yours needs anything, but its one of those things that is easy to fix while the rear is out, not much more work involved. Same as inspecting the driveline, old age they wear out. Problem is tearing it down, ordering parts, and getting it all fixed before your grass needs cutting again--that's a parlor stunt for anyone! If nothing else, find your leak, determine if its bad/urgent enough to fix now, and spot check the other items. You may be pleasantly surprised you have a solid machine, or you may say how in the crap did I finish mowing last time. Four little screws in the tunnel cover and you'll learn a lot about your machine. FYI, those are an "odd size" screw, I think a #12. That's why so many people put the wrong thing back in when they lose one.

Good luck, let us know what you find. A little slop here and there is normal for the driveshaft and trunion. Post pics if you can, we love pictures!
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2018, 07:23 PM
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Hopefully I get these pics on here for all to see
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  #15  
Old 06-06-2018, 07:25 PM
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It’s at the input shaft. Leaking onto the filter and running around the filter to the bottom. Per the diagram I’m thinking #47 seal ??
Can you all see it ok?
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  #16  
Old 06-06-2018, 07:27 PM
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It’s literally dripping from the bottom of the input shaft as it spins. That’s #47 correct?? Can someone tell me a part number please.

Also I’m going to be doing Trunnion work.
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  #17  
Old 06-06-2018, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by m67tang View Post
It’s literally dripping from the bottom of the input shaft as it spins. That’s #47 correct?? Can someone tell me a part number please.

Also I’m going to be doing Trunnion work.
Your talking about those specs on the filter?
How many minutes of total run time since the filter was installed or powerwashed?

And it would appear that the input seal housing has been removed at least once before.

Look here for the seal: https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-...-transmission/
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  #18  
Old 06-06-2018, 10:33 PM
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I changed the hy Tran fluid when I got it a couple weeks ago. About 3 hrs working since then.
Yes part numbers are in reference to the diagram. I see it’s a lip seal. Looks like cub number 921-3032. Think I found it on cc specialialties web page. What all has to come apart to change it?
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2018, 12:19 PM
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Does someone have a link of pics or video showing this seal getting changed?
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  #20  
Old 06-07-2018, 03:01 PM
Inspector Gadget Inspector Gadget is offline
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Does someone have a link of pics or video showing this seal getting changed?
I'm not sure I know how to post links, but try this one.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=51941
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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