Cub cadet 1000 with clutch issues - Page 2

Jeff in Pa · #11 05-28-2018, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twoton

Jeff's makin' solid drivers now? Awesome!

Wait

What?

We do have a water jet at work, I can look into making them.

timcasbolt · #12 05-31-2018, 07:36 AM

It looks like I'm going to need to remove the drive plate and adapter from the Kohler to copy or convert for the new engine. Does anyone know offhand what the thread on the end of the crankshaft is, and is it right or left handed?

ironman · #13 05-31-2018, 08:19 AM

What new engine?? You went from fixing a clutch to replacing the engine??
The "drive plate", if you mean the 3-pin driver is held to a "cup" on the crankshaft with four 1/4" bolts. The "cup" slides onto a pin in the flywheel and is held on by a big nut on the end of the crankshaft. If you need a solid 3 pin driver they can be found on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-3...oAAOSwn8FXR2DW

but if you use a solid 3-pin driver you must put in solid motor mounts.

If you are staying with rubber iso mounts you need a $$$$$$FLEX$$$$$$ 3-pin driver.

timcasbolt · #14 05-31-2018, 08:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

What new engine?? You went from fixing a clutch to replacing the engine??
The "drive plate", if you mean the 3-pin driver is held to a "cup" on the crankshaft with four 1/4" bolts. The "cup" slides onto a pin in the flywheel and is held on by a big nut on the end of the crankshaft. If you need a solid 3 pin driver they can be found on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-3...oAAOSwn8FXR2DW

but if you use a solid 3-pin driver you must put in solid motor mounts.

If you are staying with rubber iso mounts you need a

$$$$$$FLEX$$$$$$ 3-pin driver.

Sir, I thought I was fairly clear in post #5. Are you saying that you don't know the thread size or if it's right or left handed?

olds45512 · #15 05-31-2018, 09:03 AM

Not sure on thread size but it's right hand thread.

timcasbolt · #16 05-31-2018, 09:10 AM

Thank you.

ironman · #17 05-31-2018, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timcasbolt

Sir, I thought I was fairly clear in post #5. Are you saying that you don't know the thread size or if it's right or left handed?

Sorry, I misunderstood because in a following post you said everything is back together and seems fine.

Anyways what I was trying to explain was that you can remove the 3-pin driver without removing anything from the crankshaft.

The nut that holds the cup and the flywheel on is 5/8-18 tpi. It is right handed and you will need a 15/16 socket to get it off. Hope that helps you.

J-Mech · #18 05-31-2018, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timcasbolt

Sir, I thought I was fairly clear in post #5. Are you saying that you don't know the thread size or if it's right or left handed?

Oh.... your one of those new members. The kind who wants to come on here and act like they have it all figured out, but can't figure out bolt threads, or read manuals and parts books.

I'll be really clear in this post.... so there isn't any confusion. There is no engine that will work as well in a Cub Cadet than a K series Kohler. There is no engine cheaper, or easier to work on than a K series Kohler. If you are going to go hacking up the tractor, and reworking everything to make it fit, you are going through far more work than is necessary. This is coming from people who actually know what direction the bolts on the crankshaft are threaded without having to ask. We've seen people attempt it, some have done it, others (like me) can see what a waste of time and money it is to go down that road, to gain nothing.

My suggestion is to figure out how to read the parts and service manuals for the machine and figure it out on your own.

timcasbolt · #19 05-31-2018, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Oh.... your one of those new members. The kind who wants to come on here and act like they have it all figured out, but can't figure out bolt threads, or read manuals and parts books.

I'll be really clear in this post.... so there isn't any confusion. There is no engine that will work as well in a Cub Cadet than a K series Kohler. There is no engine cheaper, or easier to work on than a K series Kohler. If you are going to go hacking up the tractor, and reworking everything to make it fit, you are going through far more work than is necessary. This is coming from people who actually know what direction the bolts on the crankshaft are threaded without having to ask. We've seen people attempt it, some have done it, others (like me) can see what a waste of time and money it is to go down that road, to gain nothing.

My suggestion is to figure out how to read the parts and service manuals for the machine and figure it out on your own.

Thank you for your input. I suggest you move on to another thread and leave this one alone.

timcasbolt · #20 05-31-2018, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

Sorry, I misunderstood because in a following post you said everything is back together and seems fine.

Anyways what I was trying to explain was that you can remove the 3-pin driver without removing anything from the crankshaft.

The nut that holds the cup and the flywheel on is 5/8-18 tpi. It is right handed and you will need a 15/16 socket to get it off. Hope that helps you.

Thank you.