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View Poll Results: What should I do about seals with the M18?
Inspect and replace if necessary 4 10.81%
Replace while the engine is out and they are accessible 11 29.73%
Just replace the flywheel one since it’s hardest to get at 2 5.41%
Leave them alone if they aren’t obviously leaking 11 29.73%
Bin the M18 and do a Hemi swap instead 9 24.32%
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll

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  #11  
Old 12-17-2017, 06:14 PM
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BThein BThein is offline
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Wow, I have done a bit of work on these engines and can't say I have ever seen one split like that . Good luck on whatever you decide to do .

Bob
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2017, 07:23 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BThein View Post
Wow, I have done a bit of work on these engines and can't say I have ever seen one split like that . Good luck on whatever you decide to do .

Bob
In one of those pics you can see they only had the thing mounted with 3 of the 4 bolts, and the other 3 weren't entirely properly mounted either. One had a stack of washers instead of the proper spacer.

Wonder if that had something to do with it.

I'm leaning towards trying to find an M18/20 or another KT17II for it and just letting it sit around for a while until I do. Maybe trade the vanguard for it. It needs plenty of other cleanup that will keep me busy for a while anyway.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2017, 04:58 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Had some time this long weekend, and figured I had nothing to lose by tearing the engine down to see what the insides looked like. If everything was fine, finding a new crankcase and swapping the guts around might be all it would take to get it running alright.

Glad I didn't try and just run it the way it was. #1 had gotten HOT. Nuts on it were just finger tight and it was pretty gacked once I got it apart. Was hoping I might be able to get away without replacing the rods, but if I continue with the rebuild, that's straight out. #2 has seen some stuff too.

I think the crank can probably still be cleaned up with a little acid, and then I'll have to see if it's still alright.

On the plus side, the jugs are both in spec and look pretty alright, and the pistons both look alright too.

Also the crankcase crack isn't all the way through anywhere, so now I'm tempted to try and patch it up. Still on the lookout for a decent replacement crankcase though.











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  #14  
Old 12-30-2017, 08:06 PM
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All in all you came out ahead (especially with the crack not propagating into the crankcase). One of those bearings look like it ate some sand at some point. If the coil is what finally stopped this thing, it was a blessing!

Great photos. Thanks for taking the time to share 'em
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2017, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrewer View Post
All in all you came out ahead (especially with the crack not propagating into the crankcase). One of those bearings look like it ate some sand at some point. If the coil is what finally stopped this thing, it was a blessing!

Great photos. Thanks for taking the time to share 'em

That coil definitely saved what was left of that engine. I hope you are able to salvage most of that engine.
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  #16  
Old 12-30-2017, 09:36 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Looks like a poor casting mark to me and not a crack. No way it's a crack going that far down the block and the fact you say it isn't inside. It's just a cast mark.


Please don't just acid wash the crank and call it good. It needs ground, it basically spun a bearing (if it had bearings.) Home "polish" typically don't end well. Despite what others say, it looks like a lack of oil, not sand. Probably have other issues to address as well. I'd pass on fixing it. Too costly.
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  #17  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:21 PM
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DeltaCub DeltaCub is offline
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I concur with the lack of lube on the crank. Lack of adequate oil causes metal transfer, galling and is evident on the rod beam and cap. The oil film is baked on and turns black as the high heat builds and damages rod and crank. Everything that requires lube is affected. A knowledgeable machine shop is your best bet for properly reconditioning cranks.
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  #18  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:06 AM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Thanks all for the feedback. Really appreciate it. My take was also lack of oil. I haven’t gone through and cleaned out all the passages yet, but there was a little extra black sealant floating around in various places. Might have contributed. The #1 piston is the furthest thing to get lubed according to the service manual, so I suppose low oil pressure or a blockage somewhere would be most likely to result in that guy getting screwed the worst.

I mic’d the main crank journals and they have basically zero wear. I’ll try getting the aluminum off the rod journals and see how messed up they are and go from there.

I’m starting to agree with Jon that the crankcase crack could just be a casting flaw/mark. I was sure when I cracked it open that I’d find the crack all the way through, but I looked pretty close and didn’t see anything. Probably take a bit of wire wheel to it and see how deep it goes. I know some guys that do NDI stuff on aircraft/turbine parts. Might have to ask/bribe them for some advice

I know these things aren’t the most economically efficient thing to repair, but I like keeping things original-ish, and if a properly done rebuild lasts another 20-30 years, I’m not opposed to dumping a little extra coin into it. If the crank cleans up ok and the crankcase is alright, I will probably just rebuild it.
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  #19  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:39 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Original-ish......

That's a replacement engine you know. 682 never came with a KT II. Especially not a red one.

If you want to know if it's really a crack, magna flux it.


Grind the crank.....no, really. Don't mess with it. Don't clean it.... just take it to a shop before you convince yourself it's fine and doesn't need it.
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  #20  
Old 12-31-2017, 06:13 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
682 never came with a KT II. Especially not a red one.
WRONG.... the 682/782 came with the KT-17 Series I (Spec No 24193) up to serial number 726124. At serial number 726125 and above, they came with the Series II (Spec No 24302), regardless of color.
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