Starting issue..gasoline or carb?

[Merk]

by placeebo effect
may i sugguest a dose of seafoam to clean out the carb

Check out question#12 on Kohler's FAQs:
http://www.kohlerengines.com/maintenance/faqs.htm
It deals with additives. Sea Foam is a fuel system cleaning additive and a poor one at that for small motors.

[Merk]

Jeff122,
A stock lohler motor has a compression ratio of 7 to 1. You need to have a compression ratio of 9.25/9.5 to 1 to justify using high test. My 149 has a total of .040 milled of the head and block. It runs better on regular than high test. I used several plow days for test grounds.

by wshytle
I'll say it again that an older gentleman with roughly 50 years experience, dealing with Gravely engines first then both Gravely and Kohler told me to use hi-test. He also stated it has a longer shelf life as well. Bottom line in this discussion is that most problems seem to be coming from dirty carbs, not bad gas. Since I started using hi-test regularly my carbs have remained clean or so it seems. I do try to stay on top of cutting the fuel off and I'm actually experimenting with MMO as an additive as I learned from the forum.

Sad to say the gents with roughly 50 years experience are the ones that get tunnel vision or set in their ways. Just because it work in the past doesn't mean it will work in the present. Todays gas is not the same as it was a few years ago.

Poor fuel storage is one of the biggest problems I see.

It is your choice-You can waste your money on so-called increased quality control gas.....not worth it in my book.

[wshytle]

Mirt54, Have you found your problem? Did you clean that carb?

Merk, The gentleman I speak of has forgotten more than most will ever know. He got his experience on these very engines as a younger man. Why do you say he speaks with "tunnel vision"? Sure, gas was different back then; not worse, just different. And why won't things that worked in the past work now? You seem to throw out some broad statements and state facts that most could care less about. You run regular with good results and that's fantastic! I run hi-test with good results. As I mentioned before, I'm trying MMO now. I haven't been able to see vast improvement yet but I have less mesquittos. I guess it's all in how one looks at something...

[Merk]

by wshytle
You seem to throw out some broad statements and state facts that most could care less about. You run regular with good results and that's fantastic! I run hi-test with good results. As I mentioned before, I'm trying MMO now. I haven't been able to see vast improvement yet but I have less mesquittos. I guess it's all in how one looks at something...

F.Y.I.
I have over 40 years working on small motors. I used to teach a small motor class until a tumor on my vocal cords put an end to that.

The last 5 years I have been expermenting with different types of fuels. My goal is to get the best bang for the buck. I wanted to take gas from the local station and add a few things to improve fuel ecomony and performace. Over the years I learned sereral things that I have share on different sites. One of the bigger problems I see is how small motor owners store their fuel. Most small motor manufactures now have infomation about fuel storage on their sites.

The facts and "broad statements" as you call them that I posted are there to help a small motor owner/user to get the best out of his/her motor. Sad to say some people have tunnel vision which makes them spend/waste more money to keep their small motors running. Most times their performace levels aren't the best.

[aagitch]

I'd say you've got a carb problem. The ethanol in the fuel shouldn't be causing it as long as it's under 10%. Running high octane in these small engines and even car engines, (there are exceptions) is a waste of money you might as well use that money for toilet paper. Fresh fuel, StaBil, and a properly adjusted/clean carb is all you need.

[mirt54]

Originally Posted by wshytle

Mirt54, Have you found your problem? Did you clean that carb?

Merk, The gentleman I speak of has forgotten more than most will ever know. He got his experience on these very engines as a younger man. Why do you say he speaks with "tunnel vision"? Sure, gas was different back then; not worse, just different. And why won't things that worked in the past work now? You seem to throw out some broad statements and state facts that most could care less about. You run regular with good results and that's fantastic! I run hi-test with good results. As I mentioned before, I'm trying MMO now. I haven't been able to see vast improvement yet but I have less mesquittos. I guess it's all in how one looks at something...

No, I'm going to do a rebuild on the carb, I just have to determine if it's a Kohler or Walbro...I assume it's stamped on the carb somewhere???? What is MMO? I kinda thought it was a carb problem, and I appreciate all the responses. This is a great site with great members!!

[RPalmer]

Originally Posted by mirt54

No, I'm going to do a rebuild on the carb, I just have to determine if it's a Kohler or Walbro...I assume it's stamped on the carb somewhere???? What is MMO? I kinda thought it was a carb problem, and I appreciate all the responses. This is a great site with great members!!

Very basically (excluding Carter) if the mounting flange is notched or sorta open where it bolts to the engine, it's a Kohler. If the same area is closed or looks solid except for where the bolts go through the flange, it's a Walbro.

MMO is Marvels Mystery Oil.

[eastonct124]

I don't want to insult anyone but, you can get a kohler, or briggs to run on keroene if timed and adjusted right. (ok, "Barely" run)
Gas has little to do with it. The carb needs cleaning, adjusting screws must have a smooth,even taper, polished even, float adjusted right, and then carb adjusted. Let cool, readjust. run hot as all hell, readjust.
I let my machines sit outside under a cover all winter, and in the spring, second pull, BAM their running.
And I only use cheap gas.
GT'S don't need avgas to run.

And the only things needed to rebuild a small eng. carb is needle and seat. I have rolls of gasket material so unless it's a crazy shaped gasket, I make one.

[Merk]

by eastonct124
I don't want to insult anyone but, you can get a kohler, or briggs to run on keroene if timed and adjusted right. (ok, "Barely" run)
Gas has little to do with it. The carb needs cleaning, adjusting screws must have a smooth,even taper, polished even, float adjusted right, and then carb adjusted. Let cool, readjust. run hot as all hell, readjust.

You be surprise what for fuel you can get a motor to run on. The key is running right. The fuel (in this case gas)you use has everything to do with how a motor runs. I'm looking for good power everytime I start a motor up.

I can only speak for myself....I prefer to work smarter-not harder-making gaskets is a good example.

[wshytle]

Mirt54, There's not much to rebuilding the carb as one of the other members pointed out. If you haven't done it before and have a digital camera take several pics before and throughout the disassembly. Doing that has proved to be helpful for me in the past. Once you get the carb on the bench just go for it. You'll need a can of carb cleaner and compressed air helps to get trash out of hard to get areas and to clean the needle valve ports. You'll also need a thin walled 3/8" deep socket to get the brass seat out. Kits are about $12-$14 and pretty much self-explanatory. You shouldn't have any trouble using all of the parts in the kit; just pay attention how things came out and put them back the same way.

Merk, Sorry for the tumor thing. I hope it is a thing of the past for good now. And good luck with your research on fuel economy/additives.