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  #11  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:00 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Sam's way of testing is the most efficient. Cylinder leak down test tools are a huge waste of money.

Do you know what piston ring are, and how they are installed? There is a gap at the end of them when they are in the engine. On new rings, the gap is several thousandths. You think air can get through a gap like that? Yes.... it can. So, yeah, it's going to leak into the crankcase some. That's why I hate leak down tests. You can determine the same thing with a fitting in the spark plug hole and just air. My problem is, I don't hear as good as I used to, and I can't always hear the leak. That's where a smoke machine comes in handy.

This is a 2 cylinder engine that's easy to work on, and parts aren't that costly. Take both heads off, true them up, fix the blown seal, take out that second vent that doesn't belong, clean up the filter housing and be happy. Lapping those valves is a waste of time. You lap new valves. Lapping old valves is like sanding wood with 5000 grit sand paper. Yeah, you take off some material, but it's going to take a lot of work to sand the board.
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Old 09-19-2018, 08:04 PM
ihcc1 ihcc1 is offline
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Jmech

You make some very good points! What is your response to my original concern? The fact that running the engine for a few moments fills the crankcase breather and then gets sucked into the carb. It wouldn't take long to suck out half the oil in the crank case. That is my issue I don't want to produce a locked up engine for all my efforts.

Thanks, Bob
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  #13  
Old 09-19-2018, 08:18 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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OK I'm going to make this easy. When a Vanguard pukes a head gasket the air is pushed into the crankcase it then exits through the vent that exits into the air cleaner housing and it blows a crap pot full of oil into the carb intake. This one would almost choke out the engine. I hooked up a hose to a small pail just to test the engine.
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  #14  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:08 PM
ihcc1 ihcc1 is offline
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I'm only doing 1 head at a time because I have several things going on the next 2 weeks. Helps me keep things sorted out.

I forgot to tell you this part. The #2 head gasket was in excellent condition with very good surface contact. I examined it several times before cleaning both surfaces. I still have to remove #1 head next week but (so far) I'm not seeing any obvious signs of back pressure in the crank case. I know its there just can't see the cause yet!
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Old 09-19-2018, 09:10 PM
ihcc1 ihcc1 is offline
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Guess I was hoping for the "Eureka" moment and just not there yet.
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Old 09-19-2018, 10:31 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Sam nailed it.
I will add, it will also blow out seals if the leak is bad enough.
That second "vent" someone added isn't helping either. Need to plug that off, or replace the valve cover.
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  #17  
Old 09-30-2018, 08:28 AM
ihcc1 ihcc1 is offline
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I plugged the after market vent hole and tested compression and leak down several times. The rings are within spec.'s so I did not replace them. Also, I did not replace #1 head gasket because test results were good. I did adjust the valves, replaced seals and replaced the breather. Just reinstalled the engine yesterday. It runs with no oil coming out of the breather. This part is a success but now the carb has to be choked to stay running.

I repaired this problem when I first got it by cleaning the carb. Yesterday I had it apart and replaced the main gasket and blew the ports out. maybe I worked some more dirt loose. I'm going to remove the idle mixture screw to make sure it's clean then reset it and start it again.

Thanks for the advice!
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