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View Poll Results: What should I do about seals with the M18? | |||
Inspect and replace if necessary | 4 | 10.81% | |
Replace while the engine is out and they are accessible | 11 | 29.73% | |
Just replace the flywheel one since it’s hardest to get at | 2 | 5.41% | |
Leave them alone if they aren’t obviously leaking | 11 | 29.73% | |
Bin the M18 and do a Hemi swap instead | 9 | 24.32% | |
Voters: 37. You may not vote on this poll |
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#21
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This seems to be as unusual as a yellow 982 or an Onan equipped 2072 (not to derail, just making a statement). To the OP, if you are going to proceed with the rebuild, take the block to be checked for cracks before wasting time. If that is good, then ask about the crank. Maybe the machine shop can clean the crank better and guarantee no aluminum residue. But if in doubt, bite the bullet and grind it for insurance. We can discuss machine shop prices all day, how bad is the price on a set of rods? I know you can get aftermarket pistons for Magnums, don't know if they interchange with a KT.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#22
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#23
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Since it’s aluminum, I didn’t know if the usual Magnaflux would work or if there’s some other way to tell. Quote:
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I don’t have production numbers for the 6/782, but the series II came out in 83, I believe, and I think the 6/782 was made for at least a couple years after that (certainly until the end of IH Ag in 84), so I’m sure there are more than a few Red MTD factory series II 6/782s running around out there. I’m curious about piston interchange as well. They are, from my understanding, pretty much identical engines aside from the ignition and quite a few parts seem to cross (or at least fit) between a m18 and a kt17 II. Rods are ~50 each and are plenty available. Rebuild kits sans pistons (but with rods) can be found with everything for a little over 200 on epay. The pistons don’t look awful but have been in that engine, which obviously had some issues, and are right at the minimum spec for thrust face wear. I’m not dumping 300 bucks in pistons into this thing, though, if there’s any way to avoid it. Probably just take the crank in to be ground next week and see from there! Again, thanks for all the help folks!
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125, 127, 2x IH 682, 2x IH 782, 2084, 3225, 2x3240 |
#24
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Look at the block up close in the area perceived to be a "crack"
Blocks are die cast aluminum,------ where as the molten aluminum is injected into the die under pressure. As the aluminum is cooled the die halves part, and the part is removed. The dies make thousands of parts, and they wear and crack, and are very expensive if they need repaired or replaced, ( thousands of dollars) depending on die size. So they use them as long as they can get a usable/machinable part. If you are seeing a crack in the crankcase half, it will be a crack going into the block. If you are seeing a crack in the die that made the part, the questioned "crack" will protrude or be just a witness mark of the cracked die that made the part. look close, it should be apparent what you have. |
#25
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When I said red, I was referring to the engine, not the tractor. No CC had a RED Kohler installed at the factory. They were all black. Replacements could be red. |
#26
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As a note, they later sold the M18 as a replacement. I suppose by your standards, it isn't "drop in" though, as the wiring had to be modified to accommodate the magneto ignition. Quote:
If they had kept with the Kohler theme, then the 982 should have gotten the K582. I read somewhere why IH went with Onan, but I can't find that info now. All I can tell you is they carry different part numbers. The bore and stroke of the engines is the same. I never took two and compared them. |
#27
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The Magnums had FORGED pistons made by Mahle, they are stout. IIRR (Foggy memory) the early series 2 did not have Mahle pistons and remembering the rod width was different @ the pin area for the Mahle. post a pix of pin side/ area of your piston and we will tell you if it is a mahle piston. |
#28
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I’m going to need new rods anyway, so the question becomes can I use M18 rods and pistons with my (freshly reground) KT 17 crank?
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125, 127, 2x IH 682, 2x IH 782, 2084, 3225, 2x3240 |
#29
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I wouldn’t mind dropping in an M18 if I could find a good one, but I don’t think it’s really that huge of an upgrade from a good KT17II. It’s not a huge wiring mod to add a NC relay and potentially the oil light. Anyway, I recall seeing a sales guide for dealers that was talking about how to compare the quiet lines to the 82 series, and I can’t exactly remember what they compared the 482 and 582 to, but it seems like it would have been a decent step up from the 1200 or the 1000 horsepower-wise. To confused matters more, MTD came along with the 1282 is basically what a 1250 with manual lift would have been with 82 series tin. And then there’s the 782D/1512/882. It just seems like they really changed up 20+ years of a pretty simple lineup with just one series of engine from one manufacturer to branch out to three different manufacturers for the garden tractor line, though I suppose the SGT didn’t really exist in the lineup before.
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125, 127, 2x IH 682, 2x IH 782, 2084, 3225, 2x3240 |
#30
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The pix of your crank is positioned so I can't see the cross drilled rod oiling holes,are there there? Just checking that some PO didn't slip in a series 1 crank. |
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