50 Hp Articulating 128 Drawings

[fourinchdragslicks]

make sure your u-joints are rated for the correct rpm and torque rating. This could be a pretty neat build. Personally I would lean towards hydraulic drive, since running 2 hoses to the back half is way less complicated

[sawdustdad]

Are the gears cut in the rear ends to work backwards? The front transmission is being driven backwards, I wonder if the gears mesh that way OK?

[cadetbemo]

RPM has been a very serious consideration. Especially for the chain drive.
I don't know about gears, but as long as bearing oiling isn't a problem I'm willing to give it a try.
I'm in a tough spot because if I turn around front drive I will have too much weight hanging over front axle.
I thought about Hydro drive but that limits the amount of workable power I can use from my diesel engine.

I really would like to use hydraulics to drive transmissions. I considered running CASE 446 drive motors instead of gear reduction. Problem is the CASE 446 runs nearly a 1:1 ratio in high range. I haven't been able to figure out what RPM the drive motor runs in, but it appears to be very high torque and very low RPM. I could run some wheel motors if I found some cheap enough but it looks like what I need might break the bank.

I have thought about Mechanical front assist. Too much gear work. I've thought about articulation with a "wheel loader" front axle that pivots, it would be difficult with such a large transaxle.

I posted these drawings to help me work through some of the unforeseen bugs, so thank you, and continue with your own thoughts. I may revisit Hydraulic drive a little.

[mjsoldcub]

there is a guy up this way who has about 10 acres FULL of small engine stuff and what not...i mean TONS of garden tractors..i bring this up just because i saw a couple at his place unlike anything i had ever seen before...one i think was name holder from germany, and the other a b.h.r, or b.h.s maybe, from spain..and they are diesel articulating garden tractors with full hydraulics...they look like this..his are older and of course outside and weathered, but very cool...maybe some info or design from something like this would help...good luck with your build, will be great...

[J-Mech]

I am very impressed with the time and thought that you have put into this! Looking forward to watching this build!

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

That's how it is done on wheel loaders but they allow the rear axle to oscillate to keep all four wheels in contact with the ground. In order to do that I think this would get very complex.

If you noticed this Sam, I'm sorry for pointing at it. If you, or anyone else missed it, the issue of articulation and oscillation are both addressed in this joint. It is the same joining system used on a 4-wheel drive articulated tractor.
Pivot 2.gif

By using the "double" upper link and the lower "ball joint" the tractor will oscillate, and pivot both at the pivot joint.

Originally Posted by sawdustdad

Are the gears cut in the rear ends to work backwards? The front transmission is being driven backwards, I wonder if the gears mesh that way OK?

As far as gearing is concerned. The Farmall Cub used the same transmission but ran it directly off the engine. Now, the engine in the F-Cub ran the other way, but in those tractors it didn't have the reduction housing. It slowed the gearing down at the final drives. So, we know that the trans gears can handle a higher RPM is necessary. However, the topshaft in the F-Cub and the Cub Cadet do turn the same direction, but the ring gear is on the left side of an F-Cub and on the right side of a CC. So, they can be flipped. Now, as far as can the gears in the trans run the other way..... I don't see why not because they are straight cut, not helical. Also note: it is not the front trans that is running backwards, it is the rear one. It would appear that is would be the other way around, but remember, the motor is turning in the opposite direction as a Kohler would. By putting the front transaxle in in reverse, it will actually be driven the "correct" way, and the rear one will run in reverse. Still, I can see no issue with this at all. Actually, this will mean that the ring gear will have to be put on the left hand side of BOTH transmissions as viewed from the actual rear of the trans.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by DoubleO7

I like it and your drawing.
Don't know nuttin about articulated machines but don't you need the u-joint to be right in-line with the pivot?

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

That's how it is done on wheel loaders but they allow the rear axle to oscillate to keep all four wheels in contact with the ground. In order to do that I think this would get very complex.

Jon

Guess I didn't explain what I was taking about very well. Double07 asked about the U-Joint being in line with the pivot. With the top link being used the deal with articulation and twisting it would be tough to have the drive shaft U-Joint dead center like on a big wheel loader. Just my 2 cents but I think I would use CV joints on that shaft.

[cubcadet]

Cool build will be watching this

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by cubcadet

Cool build will be watching this

Me too.

[sawdustdad]

This is soooo ambitious. I really have a lot of respect for folks that have the talent and skills to do something like this. I hope this happens and will be watching and learning all the way.

[cadetbemo]

I've taken comments into consideration and have shared my plans via email. I am currently working on a couple other drafts that I will share shortly. If anyone would like a copy please pm me and I will share them. I have spent a lot of time trying to research a 4wd cub cadet. Some of the best are built by those who have machine shops readily available. I have machining available but the milling would cost me some form of cash. Lathe work isn't a problem. As I've worked through many problems, I've read many questions posted by individuals looking to build some form of 4wd cub. So here are my criteria that I've set for myself.

1) Need to use as much of Iron from my 128 as practical.
2) Any added systems need to be readily available & fairly inexpensive.
3) Try to keep exotic machining costs to a minimum.

I plan on sharing a few ideas that have crossed my mind. After talking with J-Mech I've realized some possible issues with my current design. Trying to synchronize two transmissions, although not impossible could prove to be an issue in a real world environment. My second concern is having u-joints and my double roller chain withstand 3,500 rpm peaks @ 50 hp.

I think all three issues may not be that serious. BUT I was given an idea I really like... The idea of having a transmission off the engine with a homemade transfer case. My biggest problem is finding a small transmission, this caused me to create another idea.

Currently I am looking to begin construction January 2014. I will share my most current design shortly.