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  #11  
Old 10-09-2015, 11:12 AM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easternoregon View Post
Have you considered the way they do it on forklifts,,, a left/right rocker pedal? left side is forward and right is reverse

link is of electric controlled model, but i have seen some that used cables also

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=...44477189090907
I don't know if it would be possible to do it electrically like the forklift pedal, but I have seriously considered a side by side pedal set-up. One being forward and the other reverse. And yes, I think cable would be the way to go.

I really did like driving the Yale lifts with uni-pedal.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2015, 08:01 AM
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CadenceWildBeast CadenceWildBeast is offline
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Well here it is!

Finely got some time to work on the speed control foot pedal.

The first 5 photos shows the basic pedal before it was attached to the rocking shaft. I used 1/2" box tube as it is cheap and easy to work with. I made an "A" shape with that witch is basically 3/4 of my foot length. I added the little additions that you can see in the 3rd Picture so that i could attach my strap to it ad then be able to add some rotational stability to it. I then took some diamond plate and welded that on top for some traction. I notched out the bottom to the shape of the 1/2" Dia rocking shaft and the pedal was basically finished.

The next two pictures shows the attachment shaft that transfers the motion form the foot pedal to the forward reverse lever on the dash. The arm is 4.5" from center to center. I had the bottom piece made out of Stainless steel at my work, and then make the arm section out of basic flat stock from the big box store. There are 2 10-32 set screws in the bottom to clamp onto the shaft to transfer the motion. the Lever arm goes up to 2 ball joints made as short as they can (end to end with no rod showing). Then i just drilled another hole next to where the stranded hydro connection is. Picture to come.

As for location of the rocking shaft going through the frame i used two existing holes in the frame. I used a step bit to open them out to 3/4 for a brass bushing that i ground down to roughly the frame thickness. I used a section of frame from the 1250 donor tractor. Come to find out the frame is a little thinner as you may see my bushings are a tad short . I opted to have the bushing go from inside out and grind them down cause i though it would be a better look and the busking would not fit between the break lever and frame. By going from inside out I was also able to use simple locking collars on each side of the bushings on the inside to lock it left to right. I have the rod on the left side of the tractor just sticking out a little bit as seen on picture 8.

Now to be able to pull the pedal backwards for reverse i needed a strap to go over the top of my foot. This caused the greatest amount of though in the project. I wanted it adjustable for different foot sizes and to look good wile doing it. Many ideas came to mind from nylon webbing and a slider to a chopped up leather belt and buckle. I ended up going with 550 paracord and weaving that into a nice strap. this served two purposes. 1 it is woven so tight that is hardly flexes. This is the desired effect so that it holds its shape when you take your foot out so that you can easily slide it back under but inst so rigid that it would hurt or cut you. 2. is that just like a leather belt you can adjust it to fit over a normal shoe or a large boot.
(yeah stupid me attached the belt buckle upside down so look close and you'll see it. Need new drill bits to drill out the rivets and redo.)

I attached the straps to the pedal with 3 pop rivets. One large head on the ear on the bottom seen in picture 3 and 2 smaller on the A shaped frame to keep it from twisting. (Pictures Coming)

The last 3 Pictures are the pedal assembled. You can see in the last two pics how my foot can move up and use the pedal or slip out and rest comfortably on the rest of the foot rest.

I hope you guys enjoy this and it will help someone wanting to do a similar project to there NF Cadet. Any questions feel free to ask.

Now it :30!!
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2015, 08:07 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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I think you might have a jerky-ness problem in rough ground with the pivot @ the bottom, time will tell.
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2015, 08:32 AM
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CadenceWildBeast CadenceWildBeast is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
I think you might have a jerky-ness problem in rough ground with the pivot @ the bottom, time will tell.
You might be right, but for the most part building this as a dual control set up the idea is to use the foot control when using the loader when build, so if i am covering a lot of ground with it I can use the hand lever. Also with is being tied into the hand control i can set the resistance on the standard hydro control. Good point though It will be something for me to look out for.
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  #15  
Old 10-15-2015, 08:51 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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If it is not to your liking, possibly make the pedal narrow, pivot it in the center,
for F/R and put a narrow foot rest along side, to rest your foot on and still be able to rock your foot to the side, to operate the directional peddle.
just brain storming here, many ideas abound I'm sure.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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