Hydrostat Adjustment - Page 4

FJK12 · #31 09-05-2010, 03:33 PM

Thanks DX3, that picture & your statements explains ALOT. That area of my tractor is always covered with alot of grease & dirt. I suspect when I clean it off, I'll see what is worn. If I read your explination correctly, does that trunion block get a groove cut in it from the rectangular slot in the grey piece? The wear is probably why I can't make the adjustment in the first place. My tractor has about 1400 hrs.

_DX3_ · #32 09-05-2010, 04:04 PM

You will actually get grooves and wear in the yellow arm from the spring end guides. The rectangle that the spring and guides set in, needs to be square. It is not very hard to weld and fill in the areas, just do a small amount at a time. If you have to do this.. wrap a wet rag or towel down around the hydro unit to keep the heat from melting the oil seal. Hence the reason to weld small amounts at a time and file down till you get it as good as you can. It actually only took me about 20 minutes of work to get mine filled in and back close to square. The spring ends should be allowed to move back and forth. I used the grey piece as a guide for making sure the bracket was square. The center portion of the grey bracket is an exact match in size to the yellow one. Also as Matt showed me too, both of those brackets will get loose with years of use. He suggested using shim washers behind the snap rings to take up unnecessary back and forth play.

Here is a pic showing the area's to shim. I ordered the shims from McMaster Carr.

1/2" ID at .005 a packet of 10
5/8" ID at .005 a packet of 10

I used 4 5/8 shims on the gray bracket down under the springs
and I think about 3 shims on the yellow bracket beside the hydro filter as seen in the picture. I also removed both of those brackets and cleaned all rust from behind them as they both need to move freely. I also used a drum sander on my dremel to clean out the round hole the shafts fit into.
I hope some of this makes sense for you.
Also as seen in the picture, there is a white plastic shaft shim that I replaced. Mine was severely worn allowing the bracket to wobble even more than it should have.

NiasNeb · #33 09-06-2010, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

NiasNeb,
Some guys replace their manual release valves with automatic and don't require this lever anymore.
Cub Cadet 123

I think this site is pretty <adverb> awesome. My next project will be to get internet in the garage.

I looked at the thing again Saturday. Do I need to remove the cover between the seat and the console (I think what is referred to as the tunnel cover) get to these? Also to replace them can I just unscrew them and pop the new ones in or will springs and gears come flying out and reach the far corners of the garage?

hotya100 · #34 09-07-2010, 07:38 PM

[QUOTE=Wild Bill;40719]Here is a diagram of the trans controls for a WF 1x9 series tractor

I have a 129 with the controls as parts 16, 18, 19, 20, & 21 above. Is there any repair procedures to replace parts 20 & 21? I haven't dis-assembled anything yet, so I don't know if there is any wear on part 18.

Thanks,
LD

Cub Cadet 123 · #35 09-07-2010, 08:15 PM

Wow!! My original question has gotten many responses on this issue and I am very pleased to have all of the valuable information at hand. Even though I haven't had the opportunity to get to this yet on my 149, I am now much better prepared to do so when time will lend itself that way for me--it sounds like such a simple, easy thing to do and I was almost there just yesterday when my nephew dropped by for a visit, so all I got done was my hydro release spring steel replaced on my lever. Nonetheless, I plan on working on the "creepy thing" soon. Just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has given input on this thread and I hope that it has helped several others out there, as well. Once again, I am reminded of the great team of minds who take their time to help each other out in this forum. I've noticed a lot of our newbies come on here and state how great this site is for advice and friendliness, so I just want to further echo that sentiment and say those two words that are seldom spoken these days, but rarely forgotten........."THANK YOU!!"

Cub Cadet 123

NiasNeb · #36 09-12-2010, 09:00 AM

RE: The photo above from DX3.

Are those automatic or manual release valves (or one of each even)? Mine both look like the one on the right. I'm trying to figure out if those are automatic or not (because it won't roll freely) and if they are manual how do I disengage them? Is there a thread somewhere (that I just haven't found yet) that documents this process?

_DX3_ · #37 09-12-2010, 10:27 AM

Mine has one of each, from what I have learned here, some of the early model quiet lines were put out like that from the factory. I do not have to push the valve down to move my mower around. The right one is the automatic valve.

Matt G. · #38 09-12-2010, 10:50 AM

The one on the right is an automatic valve.

DX3, you should be depressing the lever for whatever direction the manual valve is connected to, or you risk this:

bad_pump.jpg

I am VERY suspicious of the notion that some of the QLs came from the factory with one of each. That doesn't make any sense at all, as the lever wouldn't be able to actuate the manual valve, and if the tractor was supposed to have two auto valves, there would be no lever to release them, so either way, the tractor wouldn't be able to be safely rolled in one direction.

NiasNeb-

The manual ones are operated by depressing the button in the center. There should be a lever on the side of the tunnel cover with a tab that depresses the buttons.

NiasNeb · #39 09-12-2010, 01:05 PM

Thanks. I was hoping that was the case. Both on mine look like the right one. Perhaps I wasn't waiting long enough because when I went up to the garage a few minutes ago I as able to push the thing forward and backwards about 1 foot. I suspect if the valves were not working properly I wouldn't be able to do that. Would that be correct?

I have casters that I can use to move it around the garage but my worry is if I should get stuck in the alley; how I would move it to the safety of a garage until I can figure it out. I still suspect the motor might need some TLC or possibly replaced. Something up there is rattling pretty good and on some starts I get a little puff of black smoke. I just want to get this thing dependable so if that means re-powering it then that's what I'll do.

_DX3_ · #40 09-12-2010, 01:22 PM

Hmmm.. glad to know about needing to be depressed. Of course there is no lever on the tunnel cover. All I know is it rolls fine forward or backward if I have to move it around in my shop. I'll just start running the engine to move it then, sure don't want to mess up the hydro. I was also basing my comment on the fact I have seen a few pics of the same set up with the valves like mine here on the site, and IIRC, it had been mentioned that some of the very first QL's were done like this. Think I'll keep my eyes posted for some extra automatic valves to keep on hand and to replace the manual one with.