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#31
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Jon - never gave a thought to using the hydros as a reservoir. Good call. Tap in a suction on the drain plug and put a return in the top cover. Easy peasy. AND there's all ready a cooling fan!
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, |
#32
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Make a solid control rod with tie rod/ or ball socket joints on each end, just like the original linkage from the swashplate to the handle lever. Tie rods were used on it, and are fine. They only have play when they are worn out. You can thread the rod LH on one end, and RH on the other, so it would be adjustable. Use jam nuts. If you don't like the tie rod style, use a ball socket style.
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#33
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#34
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Quote:
I'll leave it as is until I get it running and see how it works. I agree 100% that a ported pump is the best way to go, and for sure would be less expensive. I won't make any decision until this thing is running and I'm convinced it will work as expected.
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#35
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Decided to go with Jon's and Double07's recommendations to upgrade the hydro sync link.
Used the 147's (donor parts tractor) hydro control rod and substituted the clevis from the brake/neutral rod for one end. Added some additional 5/16 rod in the middle (to preserve the LH/RH threads already on the donor rod) and reinstalled the new rod. Working on the carb today. (taking a break for some lunch right now). I'm anxious to get this build outside so I can wash some of the grime from the forward hydro, frame and engine. I should have done that before I brought it into the shop.
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#36
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Looking at the dirty engine while I was rebuilding the carb, I made the bold decision to pull it and put in the rebuilt K301 I have that's been on the shelf since last year. Moved it from the garage to the shop with the orange tractor.
Alvy, if you are listening, I think this is the engine with the crank I got from you. Both of our GSDs, Brutus (blue collar) and Butchie (red collar) are constantly "helping" me. For example, today I found several box end wrenches in the yard. I guess they felt they needed some air or sun or whatever. Can't leave anything on the floor when I'm done working! So I cleaned up the frame a little, spent some time adjusting the steering gear box since is was easily accessible, and set the K301 in place. The K241 I removed has a damaged keyway on the crank where the starter pulley/PTO basket was loose for some time. So I'll have to decide what to do about that later.
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#37
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Oh yeah buddy loud and clear. I’m really liking your project and ideas here. Coming together nicely and extending existing linkages and rods is the right idea with this custom stuff. Lots of trial and error but using the KISS method seems to always keep the error part in check. Glad to see the Alvy crank made its way into this one. I chuckled the other day reading your install of the rear axles and the carpenter in you came out with your terminology in post #22. Keep up the great work, love it!
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#38
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Coming along, dual brake set maybe? looks like it will pop some wheelies for sure.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#39
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Yes, both sets of brakes are intended to work. TBD.
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#40
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It's a cool build for sure, and I can't wait to see some video of it running. Hmmm - I got a couple 149's and a spare K341, maybe ---
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, |
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