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  #31  
Old 10-23-2018, 08:56 AM
RumbleFish RumbleFish is offline
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Im not exactly sure how he did it. Almost looks like a bolt with a machined sleeve on it to fit the disc.
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  #32  
Old 10-27-2018, 08:28 AM
RumbleFish RumbleFish is offline
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All my parts are here, I'm hoping to get it thrown together today or tomorrow and see if it will run. The gas doesn't smell too old and the oil looked full and clean so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I cant wait to get out there and bang gears!
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  #33  
Old 10-30-2018, 09:45 PM
RumbleFish RumbleFish is offline
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I was finally able to make some progress today. I got the driveshaft in and while cleaning up the bolts for the drive flange, I noticed the threads from the crank hub adapter whatchamacallit were still on the bolts. I decided to drill the 1/4-20 holes larger and tap them for 5/16-18, then drill the driver and flange. It worked out well. I made sure to loctite the bolts too.


I decided while it was mostly warm to go ahead and put the motor back in place. While working that the dogs started acting weird:


I'll be damned if Delia didnt kick a mouse up. It came out of the blower housing, ran right in front of me, back toward the trans. To make things worse, it had 3 babies attached. I dug out some of the nest and pushed it outside. Pupper was still on rodent lookout


I never found the mouse. But the good news is I had it running on ether. I had to jump the solenoid and the starter was acting weird, but it ran good for about 10 seconds. Im really excited! Need to do some electrical digging and see why it wont start with the key. To be continued!
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  #34  
Old 10-30-2018, 11:42 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RumbleFish View Post
I was finally able to make some progress today. I got the driveshaft in and while cleaning up the bolts for the drive flange, I noticed the threads from the crank hub adapter whatchamacallit were still on the bolts. I decided to drill the 1/4-20 holes larger and tap them for 5/16-18, then drill the driver and flange. It worked out well. I made sure to loctite the bolts too.


I decided while it was mostly warm to go ahead and put the motor back in place. While working that the dogs started acting weird:


I'll be damned if Delia didnt kick a mouse up. It came out of the blower housing, ran right in front of me, back toward the trans. To make things worse, it had 3 babies attached. I dug out some of the nest and pushed it outside. Pupper was still on rodent lookout


I never found the mouse. But the good news is I had it running on ether. I had to jump the solenoid and the starter was acting weird, but it ran good for about 10 seconds. Im really excited! Need to do some electrical digging and see why it wont start with the key. To be continued!
Do yourself a favor and rebuild the starter while you have it this far apart. Its a PITA to get at in the tractor and it doesn’t take long to pull apart, clean, grease and re-assemble. It’s a pretty common failure on these engines.
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  #35  
Old 10-31-2018, 01:49 AM
RumbleFish RumbleFish is offline
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Well that may explain why the starter was acting stupid then. Sometimes it would kick the bendix out, sometimes not. I'll put that at the top of the to do list. Thanks!
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  #36  
Old 10-31-2018, 08:38 AM
mickb72 mickb72 is offline
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Originally Posted by RumbleFish View Post
Well that may explain why the starter was acting stupid then. Sometimes it would kick the bendix out, sometimes not. I'll put that at the top of the to do list. Thanks!
Gompers got it right. Those starters get nasty inside. Your driveplate has 2 bolt patterns, 582 with Briggs used 2 holes and other Kohlers used 2 holes, but the spacing was different between the two. Wonder which one that is for? Mike
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  #37  
Old 10-31-2018, 12:33 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Well that may explain why the starter was acting stupid then. Sometimes it would kick the bendix out, sometimes not. I'll put that at the top of the to do list. Thanks!
Yup. Classic problem. Check the fuel pump for leaks too. It sits right above the starter bendix and when it leaks, it gets the engine below it gummed up and that eventually works it’s way down to the starter.

Anyway, pulling it apart is as simple as taking off the bendix and the two bolts that go through it (put witness marks on the two caps and the case for re-assembly. Clean up the commutator with some emory cloth and clean the shaft. Put some lube on the bronze bushing as well. I use garage door lube on the bendix shaft but any non-sticky lube will work well.
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  #38  
Old 11-01-2018, 01:32 AM
RumbleFish RumbleFish is offline
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I'll definitely be doing that, thank you. This would be the perfect time to pull the starter. I've got a long weekend coming up so I'm hoping I can get all that done and be driving it early next week.
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  #39  
Old 11-01-2018, 12:02 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
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Here's a good writeup on it:
http://cubfaq.com/kstarter.html

I re-assemble it differently though. I like to put the commutator into the rear cap and then slide the housing down over the whole thing. I find it easier to keep the springs in place that way. I might build a little C-shaped tool to help one of these days.
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