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  #1  
Old 04-15-2018, 02:50 PM
abbyrail abbyrail is offline
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Default Exhaust valve lifts on compression stroke

Just pulled the head on my 147's K321A engine to check for wear or damage.
Engine starts and idles fine but won't throttle up. Starts to run really rough and backfires through the intake and then stalls. Replaced carburetor, points and condenser, coil, voltage regulator and battery, even most of the wiring, but nothing has solved the problem so far.
So we pulled the head and everything looks fine, but we noticed that about a third of the way up during the compression stroke that the exhaust valve lifts about .030" until almost top dead center when it closes again. Is this normal?
Valve - tappet clearance is .010" for intake and .018" for exhaust at tdc.
Any ideas?
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Old 04-15-2018, 02:52 PM
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Alvy Alvy is offline
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That’s working correct. It’s a built in compression release feature of these motors, it’s called an ACR. There’s a mechanism on the cam that does just what you’re saying at slow cranking rpms.

Did you tune the carb? Does pulling the choke help any? Also good to static time these engines, start simple however sticking intake valve will exhibit this symptom as well
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:23 PM
abbyrail abbyrail is offline
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Thanks for the quick response. Never seen valves do that before. Old carb was re-jetted a couple years ago and worked fine until about a month ago when problems started. Had an after market carb for it so tried that after replacing everything else we could think of. Nothing has worked so far. Pulling choke just makes it run really rich and smoke (although we've always had to choke it to start it). Valves seem to work very well without any sticky points while cranking. We're out of ideas. How do you static time them? Thought it was factory set and that's it. It does seem to fire just before tdc though, so think it's working correctly.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:31 PM
abbyrail abbyrail is offline
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Also wanted to know if anyone has replaced the head gasket with a copper one. Used to do that years ago with farm equipment and never had any problems. Tracking down a stock one is difficult and expensive here in BC.
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Old 04-15-2018, 03:50 PM
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http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461
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Old 04-15-2018, 04:25 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abbyrail View Post
Also wanted to know if anyone has replaced the head gasket with a copper one. Used to do that years ago with farm equipment and never had any problems. Tracking down a stock one is difficult and expensive here in BC.
Pullers do it, but for other reasons. On a stock engine, I wouldn't recommend it.

I don't see why finding a stock head gasket would be hard in Canada. Don't you have access to aftermarket up there? Stens, Prime Line.... ebay??? Most all auto part dealers (at least in the US) carry an aftermarket for Kohler parts. I've not yet heard of any of our other Canadian members say that Kohler parts are hard to find.....
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:15 PM
cnewell cnewell is offline
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Default Governor linkage

Might seem like an odd thing to check but I had a similar issue to what you are describing. After checking just about everything I noticed that the little set screw on the throttle/governor linkage had worn away to the point it was just barely catching the throttle cable. When the engine would rev and you push the throttle lever it would slip in the screw clamp and stall the engine, etc. I replaced the little set screw/cable swivel clamp and got a good bite on the throttle cable wire and it solved the issue. Cost was less than $2.00 but the headache to find it was insane!
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:24 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by cnewell View Post
Might seem like an odd thing to check but I had a similar issue to what you are describing. After checking just about everything I noticed that the little set screw on the throttle/governor linkage had worn away to the point it was just barely catching the throttle cable. When the engine would rev and you push the throttle lever it would slip in the screw clamp and stall the engine, etc. I replaced the little set screw/cable swivel clamp and got a good bite on the throttle cable wire and it solved the issue. Cost was less than $2.00 but the headache to find it was insane!
This thread is like almost 4 months old.
I'm glad you fixed your issue, but if the cable was slipping in the clamp, then every time it slipped the throttle would have gotten more and more out of adjustment, and you should have noticed that..... Also, if the throttle cable was slipping, it should just cause the engine to slow down... no different that slowing it with the throttle. I'm betting you had another issue, likely a ground issue, that you inadvertently fixed with the throttle repair. More than likely, a condenser ground issue. Being that the cable clamp and condenser are right next to each other.... it makes a lot of sense.
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