Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 11-21-2022, 08:28 PM
West Valley G West Valley G is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Three Forks, MT
Posts: 804
Default

Sorry to hear the numbers on the compression Bob. It has been awhile
since I worked on mine but I believe. The tin you can't get off, only
comes off if you pull the engine. I would guess someone out here has figured
out a way to pull the heads and jugs with engine in but I wouldn't even
think about attempting. I would bet it would take less effort to just pull the engine.
However I do understand that kind of project isn't always doable.
Good luck with what you decide.

Ken
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-21-2022, 08:55 PM
1711Cub's Avatar
1711Cub 1711Cub is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Elkland, PA
Posts: 741
Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
Found my compression gauge last week. Checked the compression with throttle and choke fully open. Bad news. Looking at tractor from front of frame, right cylinder read 70 psi and left cylinder read 65 psi. It took me 1/2 day last week to get some of the tins off. I don't think much of the way they are attached. Got the fuel pump tin off, the front and bottom tins off but not the other side tin. Looks like you have to take the oil lines loose to get this side tin off. Is it possible to take the heads and jugs off with engine still in frame. Just want to re-bore , new rings and new valves seated. Thanks for reading and have a great day.
Bob
The service manual (a free download from Kohler's site) specs difference not greater than 15% between cylinders and above 90 psi is acceptable. Compression tests are to be done engine warm, and throttle/choke wide open.
__________________

582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-21-2022, 09:57 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,622
Default

When you get the engine out ( not a difficult job)
take off the heads, intake/exhaust manifolds, then the cylinders.
just like any other engine.
FWIW the valves have no adjustment, one precision grinds the stems, with the valve grinder to get correct clearance.(or a lathe with tool post grinder)
---------just so you know before hand.
Don't mix up the valves or you will be causing a lot of extra work in setting the clearance.
And when fitting up the valve clearance, leave the valve seals off till you get the clearance set or you will ruin them.
And don't give stupid money for those intake seals.
IIRR, inline 6 Cyl fords of late 60's'early 70's, use same seals for a couple dollers not $20 + each some ask.
Read the service manual!!
Do understand it ain't an afternoon job and you do need precision measuring devices, a ruler and caliper don't cut it.
I've covered it all before on here.
Go easy on the silly cone!!!
Good luck, have fun
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-22-2022, 11:30 AM
Mr Bob's Avatar
Mr Bob Mr Bob is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 517
Default 1862 Oil Usage

Thanks George & 1711. Looks like I will have to do the compression check again. Throttle fully open, choke fully open but a cold engine 1st time. Don't think it will go any where near 90 psi but worth a try with a warm engine. I really don't want to pull the engine. I get very dizzy when lying on my back and trying to work. Old age sucks. Do you think pulling the jugs and getting it back together is doable without pulling the engine? Engine runs great as is. No putt at exhaust or carb. Thanks for your help and have a great day.
Bob
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-22-2022, 11:44 AM
farmer52 farmer52 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: PA
Posts: 86
Default

If it is does not smoke (blue), you may be okay. Also the plugs look dry. I recommend to change the oil and filter before you do another compression check. If it does not sit in the cold, put 30W oil in.
__________________
Ken
Old fart - new to Cub Cadets
Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 11-22-2022, 01:00 PM
1711Cub's Avatar
1711Cub 1711Cub is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Elkland, PA
Posts: 741
Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
Thanks George & 1711. Looks like I will have to do the compression check again. Throttle fully open, choke fully open but a cold engine 1st time. Don't think it will go any where near 90 psi but worth a try with a warm engine. I really don't want to pull the engine. I get very dizzy when lying on my back and trying to work. Old age sucks. Do you think pulling the jugs and getting it back together is doable without pulling the engine? Engine runs great as is. No putt at exhaust or carb. Thanks for your help and have a great day.
Bob

Also, IF you encounter low readings, squirt some 30W oil in the spark plug hole, then retest. If the readings rise quite a bit, then you have a ring seal issue. If the readings don't improve, you have a valve sealing issue.
__________________

582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-22-2022, 01:12 PM
farmer52 farmer52 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: PA
Posts: 86
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1711Cub View Post
Also, IF you encounter low readings, squirt some 30W oil in the spark plug hole, then retest. If the readings rise quite a bit, then you have a ring seal issue. If the readings don't improve, you have a valve sealing issue.
Excellent suggestion!
__________________
Ken
Old fart - new to Cub Cadets
Looking for a nice original low hour 1772 or 1782
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-22-2022, 02:07 PM
1711Cub's Avatar
1711Cub 1711Cub is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Elkland, PA
Posts: 741
Thumbs up

I have pulled the jugs off of them only on the bench. If the rotating assembly is fine inc. cam and governor gear, then the beauty of these flat twins is you can fully service the bores without disturbing the crank and cam.
__________________

582, 682, 782, 782D, 1282, 1050, 1210 x 2, 1711, and 1811
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-22-2022, 06:30 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,622
Default

Pulling the engine is the way to go, trust me, its easy and no underside work, Most all is sitting on a stool ( might be difficult getting up), Ha,LOL!
Ok not so funny for us "recycled teenagers" (seenagers)
Do not try in frame cyl removal, it just is trying to pull yerself up by yer boot straps,--- ok worse than that.
When you remove the exhaust manifolds keep them attached to the muffler.
Mufflers are old and rusty and don't like divorcing the manifold spigots.
Heat the manifold nuts so you don't have to deal with broken studs
Also the pto clutch 2 top bolts/studs need dealt with to remove the muffler.
You will need 2 exhaust-to-cyl. gaskets when going back together.
Cylinders are RTV'd to the crankcase, no gaskets.
Heads to cyl do use head gaskets no reusing them and be sure to retorque after running on the bench, bring them up to temp 2X then retorquing, or you will be replacing then.
You can bring them up to temp with tins off, just don't get carried away.
Oh boy here I go again, you prolly know all this.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-22-2022, 07:14 PM
Mr Bob's Avatar
Mr Bob Mr Bob is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 517
Default 1862 Oil use

Thanks to all that replied. All very helpful. I do have a printed copy of service manual. Thanks for the advise to squirt oil in cyls. before compression test. I knew to do that at one time but had just forgotten. George, I do have a chain pulley and steel beam running across ceiling of my garage. I know this project will take me months to complete. I don't see where any oil has leaked from the front or back of engine. Governor seems to be working fine. Will know more about oil leakage when engine is sitting on work bench. I need to start reading the service manual and hope I can remember what I read. Thanks to all and have a great day.
Bob
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.