Looking for help with wheel bearings and steering

[Cub Cadet 123]

I am planning on going to the Tri-State Small Engine Show and can pick up some new bearings fairly cheap. They are probably not top of the line, but I have ran them before since 2009 without any problems. Just let me know if you are interested, then PM me. Just reimburse me for the cost and shipping.

Cub Cadet 123

[Chad126]

Originally Posted by SS5150

I put a bearing at the top of the column (where the bushing is)

I did the same. Makes a huge difference. I would highly suggest this, although It doesn't make the response any tighter, just makes it smoother. VERY smooth.

[drglinski]

OK, after doing more research, I want to upgrade the tie rod ends with greaseable ones from McMaster Carr, upgrade the steering box with the bearing upgrades, and install a bearing at the top of the column. One thing at a time however....... Time to research part numbers. Is this the correct PN for the tie rod ends? 4444T931 For all 4?

As far as modifying the tie rods, if I'm reading correctly, to ensure it's correct after the OEM (or replacement tie rod ends at this point) are removed, I will have to cut more threads further in and then cut off excess ones? I think I know what you (JMech) are getting at.

Thanks

[ironman]

Originally Posted by drglinski

OK, after doing more research, I want to upgrade the tie rod ends with greaseable ones from McMaster Carr, upgrade the steering box with the bearing upgrades, and install a bearing at the top of the column. One thing at a time however....... Time to research part numbers. Is this the correct PN for the tie rod ends? 4444T931 For all 4?

As far as modifying the tie rods, if I'm reading correctly, to ensure it's correct after the OEM (or replacement tie rod ends at this point) are removed, I will have to cut more threads further in and then cut off excess ones? I think I know what you (JMech) are getting at.

Thanks

For the bearing at the top of the coulumn, you will use a decent used or new bearing that is the same one that is in your wheels (5/8 x 1 3/8). You have to either dimple the top of the tube with a center punch or use JB weld to hold the bearing in as it's o.d. is just slightly loose in the tube.

As for the tie rods, what jMech means is that the suggested ends from McMasteer are physically longer than the originals so in order to match the old total end-to-end length you will need more threads to turn them closer in.

Another thing you can do is buy (from McMaster) a very thin thrust roller bearing, some very thin thrust washers, and a nyloc nut to put on the pivot arm shaft that goes thru the gearbox. I have done this along with all the other suggestions and with tri-ribs on the front, steering comes about as clolse to power as you can get

[Alvy]

Doctor Daniel do you have a 3/8 x 24 die?

[darkminion_17]

I would just use what ball joints the 147 came with. The new ones come with a rubber boot to keep out dirt.
Cheaper and no dilly dallying with cutting new threads. But that is me, as I am old and in skewl.

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

I would just use what ball joints the 147 came with. The new ones come with a rubber boot to keep out dirt.
Cheaper and no dilly dallying with cutting new threads. But that is me, as I am old and in skewl.

Yeah, OEM Is good, but if I'm working on the steering, I want to upgrade it to make it even better than it could be. I'm wondering what thoughts on 6058K38 are.

As for the die, I can get one. All the dies I have are coarse thread.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by drglinski

Is this the correct PN for the tie rod ends? 4444T931 For all 4?

As far as modifying the tie rods, if I'm reading correctly, to ensure it's correct after the OEM (or replacement tie rod ends at this point) are removed, I will have to cut more threads further in and then cut off excess ones? I think I know what you (JMech) are getting at.

Thanks

Originally Posted by ironman

For the bearing at the top of the coulumn, you will use a decent used or new bearing that is the same one that is in your wheels (5/8 x 1 3/8). You have to either dimple the top of the tube with a center punch or use JB weld to hold the bearing in as it's o.d. is just slightly loose in the tube.

As for the tie rods, what jMech means is that the suggested ends from McMasteer are physically longer than the originals so in order to match the old total end-to-end length you will need more threads to turn them closer in.

Another thing you can do is buy (from McMaster) a very thin thrust roller bearing, some very thin thrust washers, and a nyloc nut to put on the pivot arm shaft that goes thru the gearbox. I have done this along with all the other suggestions and with tri-ribs on the front, steering comes about as clolse to power as you can get

Yes Daniel, that is the correct part number for the rod ends.
I will note, I'm not all too impressed with the grease fitting they come with. They don't fit a standard gun fitting well.

Ironman hit the nail on the head. Yes, you need to thread the drag links just a bit more because of the total length of the new. DO NOT cut off any excess until you see if you need too, and how much. Last tractor I did, the rod end bottomed out before I got everything in line. Do the tie rod first, (wheel to wheel) and get the toe adjusted. Then change out and adjust the drag link (steering box to the spindle).

Ironmans suggestion for the thrust bearing on the steering box is a very good idea. I like it. I will do that on the next box I rebuild. As a note, I also plan to machine off the lower portion of the axle itself, and put thrust bearings there also. I think that will make more difference than anything.

While you have it all apart, you likely will need new spindle bolts (that hold the spindle to the axle.)

You can get all the bearings, tie rod ends, bolts, and die you need all from McMaster Carr. I would round up a list and order it all at once.

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Doctor Daniel do you have a 3/8 x 24 die?

Survey says....yes.

[drglinski]

Originally Posted by SS5150

Cam follower, the steering gear bearing upgrade, I put a bearing at the top of the column (where the bushing is), all new tie rod ends, clamp the axle channel as mentioned prior. I made new spindle bolts (mine wore down because it wasn't maintained) and installed new wheel bearings as well on my 86. It steers quite well now.

You'll need a new seal for the gear, that the follower plate rides against, and I think it was recently discontinued. On my 86 I just used the old seal plate and cut and glued some shipping foam to it to replace the old stuff. When you get yours apart you'll see what I mean, or if your dealer is good he may still have one on the shelf.

What do I need to be looking at when it comes to spindle bolts? What/how does it wear out there, and how can I repair it?

Thanks