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  #231  
Old 11-05-2018, 09:50 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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just posting here instead of starting a new thread, to keep it from getting buried 50 pages back once again, but had to do much of the same to this 1200 I am working on for somebody else, as detailed within these last 23 pages. I hope thats' OK because it does relate to "two ton"s experience and commentary.

owner ruined the clutch in short order (was a non reinforced disc and only ever used to mow with) with new Kerber clutch driver and plates...

found wallowed holes in clutch fork hanger and fork itself... I fixed it similar to what is shown earlier in thread, I used 4, 3/8" X 3/4" OD shaft collars... though when I was looking thru the hardware section at Menard's for an idea on how to beef this up, I got to thinking that a sleeve off of a car alternator (where the mount bolts pass thru) would have the right ID, and being I have a chop saw I could make my own collars. I welded them onto the outside of the hanger bracket holes and the inside of the fork.
I also made the bottom of the fork on this unit more of a "U" shape, instead of an "L," by use of 1/8X3/4" metal bar stock, welded onto fork from the bottom, to where it flares out near start of pass-thru hole for driveshaft. I did run that added metal, all the way to where the vertical lip on that side of fork, ended.
also, I found that the washer was missing between spring and fork on adjustment rod... The spring was poking thru clutch rod hole. I had to "unscrew" it from the hole provided for the adjuster rod in the fork.... when I had it apart before, I never had that adjuster rod out of the fork, would not have removed it this time either, had I not discovered the spring winding thru that hole. so must have been there like that, from the guy I got it from, before I sold it.

On this machine, I went back with OEM reinforced disc, new T/O bearing and sleeve, new teaser and cup, new spirol pins all along, and new blue clutch spring. only things reused, were the driveshaft itself, (no wear, as I have seen in various illustrations on this site, just a few pits under where the main spring rode on driveshaft) and the trans end coupler with the ball bushing. both were in good shape, no slop noted.
Being the clutch plates only had 25 operating hours on them, from brand new, max, I simply resurfaced them on a belt sander, did not take much.... just wanted to get rid of the off- center "stain," leftover from the last disc.

and there are a lot of "little bits" on one of these tractors, that add up to a lot of play, within the clutch apply system. didn't really think of that issue til I found out I had to re replace the clutch and saw this thread, as I was reassembling each component, it was like "I remember seeing something on the OCC site about that". there was some backtracking needed but none required disassembling the clutch and driveshaft a 2nd time. any welding and dressing/ grinding that had to be done on the fork, was able to be done with it being "trapped" along the driveshaft, before reinstalling the assembly into the machine.

It has been a while (not counting, when I originally put this tractor back together, like 1-1/2 years ago) since I did my last CC gear drive clutch... which was on another 1200. On that one, I originally went with an aftermarket "stress proof" shaft, which instantly bent like a swooping jump rope and broke within a couple minutes of initial fire up.... went back with a brand new oem stock driveshaft and no problems since, on that one.... but because of the years since I did that one, I have a little "CRS" going on.... that was before I knew anything about the "cradle mod" and I used GM sway bar link bushings.... on this tractor I mounted the engine solid.... with the mounts that were originally bought, for that 1st machine. and yes I did do the cradle mod, when I 1st put the fresh engine and 1st new disc in place, about 1-1/2 years ago...

but what I DO remember, from when I did that other 1200 (NOT the same tractor as I have been farting with recently, but it is owned by the same guy as the one I am currently fixing up) I did not put the spring clips back on with that clutch. At the time I redid the clutch on that 1200, I mentioned on what ever tractor forum I was on at the time (I hadn't yet heard of this one) that I left them off, and you would have thought I did a cardinal sin....

yet here on this forum, I hear of people leaving those out all the time. I did buy 3 new ones along with the rest of the clutch parts for it.... and have them here.
I have heard that you only use a spring clip on one of the 3 driver pins, I have heard that they are needed on all 3 driver pins, and I have heard not to replace those, leave them off. Confusing. Which is right? and why? does it depend on intended use of machine? I wondered if the lack of those was what led to the original disc that I put on THIS tractor having a short life. Is there a difference in what is recommended with regards to those little clips based on metal reinforced vs non reinforced disc? the engine is going back in tomorrow. hopefully I get some feedback, before I reinstall the engine.
and 1 more thing... with the blue spring in place, I am surprised that the force needed to release the clutch, isn't stiffer than it is.

aside from these questions/ observations, pretty much the job went just like you see among the previous 23 pages. to merge this thread with Merk's clutch thread would be a good sticky for future members that have to do this job. except I would hope that anyone else going thru this repair would do so without the "Tim Taylor" moment, that I experienced... blood... arrgh arrgh that happened while building the wooden jig, that itself is meant to be able to take the danger out of compressing that spring and driving the spirol pin into the shaft without launching the assembly into oneself....
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  #232  
Old 11-06-2018, 06:46 AM
mickb72 mickb72 is offline
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Hello, it was not those missing spring clips that caused the clutch failure. It was the worn out holes on the clutch fork and holder not allowing the throwout bearing to be pulled straight. I have a blue spring in a 100, piece of cake. Mike
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  #233  
Old 11-06-2018, 09:12 AM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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I'm not 100% convinced that that was the whole cause, though it may have contributed. the pressure plates sandwich the disc between them and there was no slop or play between those and the driveshaft. so even if the fork pulled on the throwout bearing a little off kilter, it would still have to pull back even, unless the throw out bearing sleeve and the pressure plates had room to wobble on the driveshaft. Knowing the idiot that now owns this thing, and seeing how he treats it, (which it seems that is getting worse the longer I know of him) is as much of a cause of the short clutch life, as anything that I found with the machine, as I went thru it the 2nd time around. the 1st time it got new driver and pressure plates along with that new, non reinforced disc
this time it got the better disc and everything but the shaft itself that wasn't replaced the 1st time. If it goes again, this machine can sit in the barn and rot

as I think that I have said about that before, I can go out and jump on any of his machines and run them for hours on end without incident... time after time. He gets on one and within 15 minutes something is broke. sometimes I'm out there mowing on one while he is mowing another part of the yard at the same time. and I see some of the stupid things he does.....

I try to keep up with him and his carnage, because he used to work with me a couple jobs ago, he lets me use a barn that he isn' t using for free, to store my own junk, and has enough property for me to go out and play with my own machines, something that I don't have.
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  #234  
Old 11-11-2018, 10:47 PM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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Lots better. And the whole machine is smoother now than it ever has been since I have been involved with it, solid mounts and all. I used 1 spring clip on it as the reproduction IH manual that I have, showed. I had bought 3 with the intent of putting 3 of them on there. Ran the snot out of it pulling my lawn sweeper around the last 2 days, it can now go back home and outta my way.
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  #235  
Old 05-11-2020, 08:38 PM
LoveOldSteel LoveOldSteel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton View Post
Got a new 1/2” x 80” belt;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018U053I...I3VCBPYTBZ8LYX

I also ordered up a 1/2" x 78" belt for my model 44a deck;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018TYBM0...=I10EPB1ZY41S0

and a couple of new Stens v-idler pulleys (part # 280-188) for my mule drive off of ebay;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sten-280-188...cAAOSwEK9T25MO
the ebay link goes to 3/8 idlers... or am I reading it wrong? I would prefer to "upgrade" to 1/2" so Im excited about your info..
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  #236  
Old 05-11-2020, 09:44 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoveOldSteel View Post
the ebay link goes to 3/8 idlers... or am I reading it wrong? I would prefer to "upgrade" to 1/2" so Im excited about your info..
1/2 inch belts won't fit your PTO or mower deck pulleys properly. Best to stick with the OEM belts.
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  #237  
Old 05-12-2020, 10:51 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawdustdad View Post
1/2 inch belts won't fit your PTO or mower deck pulleys properly. Best to stick with the OEM belts.
Hmmm... so this doesn't fit properly?
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  #238  
Old 05-12-2020, 06:14 PM
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sawdustdad sawdustdad is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton View Post
Hmmm... so this doesn't fit properly?
Depends on the definition of "properly." The OEM belts are 3/8, and sit deeper in the pulley, contacting the sides of the pulley better than the 1/2 inch belts. Will yours work? I don't know. I've had problems with 1/2 inch belts rolling over in the PTO pulley when I tried one.

You've clearly been around long enough to make your own belt decisions, so I'll let it go at that. LoveOldSteel may not have your experience, so the comment was aimed at him.
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