1450 dies after 15 minutes

[GERKS 149]

Been having trouble with my 1450. After running about 15 minutes, it dies and doesn’t want to start again until you let it sit for a few hours.
I have seen the exhaust valve do this, but I don’t have a spark when this happens. I replaced the coil and the condenser and no change. The plug is clean too. Anybody seen this before? I’m going to check to see if I have power at the coil and coming out of the coil next.

[olds45512]

Sounds like you have a plan, let us know what you find out.

[sawdustdad]

Check the continuity/resistance of the coil when it dies. Should have continuity and about 5 or 10 ohms if I recall correctly. Could be when it's hot you have an open coil.

I've seen similar behavior with fuel restrictions, too. So be sure you rule that out before you go messing with the pixie side of things.

[GERKS 149]

What seems strange is that after cranking on it for a bit the plug was not wet with fuel.

[sawdustdad]

Originally Posted by GERKS 149

What seems strange is that after cranking on it for a bit the plug was not wet with fuel.

Thing is, if it's really just 15 minutes, that's hardly enough time for the coil to really heat up, but it's plenty of time for a fuel restriction to shut things down. Vacuum in the tank, sediment on the intake screen, plugged in line filter if there is one.

If it were more like 30 or 45 minutes, that would be the time I'd expect the coil to get hot enough to show a fault.

Remember, check the higher probability things first. Fuel, spark (points), then coil or condenser.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by GERKS 149

but I don’t have a spark when this happens.

I would test the Ignition coil right after this happens before buying anything.
Here is the link to the page in site that Roland created for proper coil testing if you dont already know how to test it.


https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by GERKS 149

Been having trouble with my 1450. After running about 15 minutes, it dies and doesn’t want to start again until you let it sit for a few hours.
I have seen the exhaust valve do this, but I don’t have a spark when this happens. I replaced the coil and the condenser and no change. The plug is clean too. Anybody seen this before? I’m going to check to see if I have power at the coil and coming out of the coil next.

You have a plan, if no spark as I understand you to say, their lies your no-run problem.
Wiring or ignition switch/ plug are common places to check
no sparky, no runny
Also check for a ground condition where the points wire connects,and also where it exits the point cover as well as set timing by static method.

[GERKS 149]

Thank you for the suggestions. It’s at my Mothers house so I don’t have it real close to check it out today. Probably be a few days before I get my hands on it. At least you guys have given me a direction to go! I’ll keep you posted as I do some testing. The hardest thing is that it will probably start and I’ll have to use it before it acts up. Have an excuse for some seat time!!

[Workingstiff]

First off listen to all others first! My experience with this was, points. The plastic portion of the contacts broke. It would start and run fine till it got hot then start knocking around and would quit. Start up and run fine after cold again. In my in-experience, I de carboned the head before I checked electrical, because it had great spark when cold....life lessons....still learning about life everyday.....

[GERKS 149]

Had a chance to look at the spark issue today. First it would not start cold. Key on-no power at the coil. I’m using a test light to check this. So I was touching some wires by the coil and we had power momentarily. Looks like the brown wire with a black stripe has an issue. This is the wire that goes to the electric pto. If I hold it in a good spot, tractor runs. Hmmm. Seems strange that it would take power away from the tractor and keep it from running. I’ll have to look at a schematic. Anybody seen this before?