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#41
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Looks really nice. Thanks for sharing your progress so we can all learn.
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Mark from Minnesota 3165 with CC Snow Blower, Front blade, Sims Cab 3185 with 3pt hitch, it runs now. But not well. 48in and 52in mower decks 2185 with mower from my dad when I have a project for it. Massey Ferguson Model 70 corn planter. CC yard cart |
#42
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Looks great!
Why did you decide on 3/8 inch hose vs. 1/4 inch? My Kubota BX23 (backhoe/loader) uses all 1/4 inch hose. And #6 JIC fittings. Should cost less than 3/8 inch stuff and be easier to run.
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#43
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The 3/8" just generates less heat and the cost difference is almost nothing.
A #6 JIC is sized for 3/8". Dash sizes, as in dash 6, etc. are measured in 1/16ths of an inch. 3/8" = 6/16", the 6 then being the dash size. Low capacity reservoirs can use all the heat reduction they can get. Since the pump will be running whenever the engine is, my pump to valve and valve to filter/return line is 5/8" instead of 1/2" for the same reason. I started cutting hoses yesterday. |
#44
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Quote:
How much of the heat generation is due to friction losses in the hoses vs. the pump? Any idea? With a pump efficiency of about 90%, when it's working hard, I'd expect you'd see a loss of maybe 1 hp or 3/4 of a kw, something like 2500 BTUs per hr? I wonder what percentage of the total system that would be, assuming you are constantly operating cylinders on the loader. Your cylinders, motor, tank, hoses, fittings, all radiate some of that heat.
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#45
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My reservoir is about three times the capacity of most of these builds, with plenty of radiant surface.
When testing pumps and motors on the test bench we always checked surface temps. It was always amazing how quickly the temp would rise when a restriction was introduced. Heat breaks down hydraulic oil, so anything that mitigates heat (generating heats also requires HP) is a good thing. No idea really on the friction loss ratio for the hoses. |
#46
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I spent a few days cutting hoses and trialing fitting arrangements. Today I took all the cut hoses back to the shop to have the ends crimped. All the hoses from the valve to the cylinders are now on. I just have to drop off the pump to valve, valve to filter and suction hoses to be crimped tomorrow. I still have to anchor some hoses.
Tonight I'll give the reservoir a final flush and fill it with oil. Getting pretty close to a test!! |
#47
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Great Progress
I like the Joystick control. I have noticed you really research your purchases. Which Brand loader control valve did you go with? . |
#48
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The valve brand is Chief. I usually decide what I need and them wait for a sale. The owner of the hydraulic shop I use to work at is always looking for deals and he gave me the heads up on this valve, on sale, and brought it in for me with another order. He's building another skid steer from scratch so he's always "gathering" stuff.
The tank is flushed and ready for oil. If all goes well, tomorrow there's going to be a heartbeat and blood in it's veins. Break in the pump, change the filter then it's on to building a bucket. |
#49
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Looking good!
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#50
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Filled it up with oil and went through a pump break in. Discovered three leaks, two of which were fittings I forget to tighten and one o-ring is bad. I think I'll just replace all the valve fitting (6) while I'm at it, as I'm sure the one's on the fittings are as cheap as they can find.
Everything functions as it should and even the rear hydraulics worked. I have to build the bucket now, but that's going to wait. It looks like I will pulling the motor because of some noise I really don't like. But when to bucket is on, I'll take some video and see if I can manage to post it somewhere. |
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