1862 major repairs, finally

[ol'George]

I use wire brushes not "scotchbright" type of abrasive.
to easy to loose the flatness of the block.
after the combustion chambers are clean, use a surface plate with sandpaper to insure they are flat or a piece of glass if a plate is not available.
Sometimes a person has a nice flat table saw or drill press plate, also
others have used the kitchen granite counter top.
Do use a figure "8" while surfacing them.

[West Valley G]

Just noticed the other day that the Model# Tag reads M18S. I have always ordered parts for this machine just using M18. In fact have never seen the designation anywhere with the S. What is the difference between M18 and M18S? Just thought I would check before ordering rings set for it.

Thanks

Ken

[West Valley G]

Never Mind. Just found the answer to the question. It simply means it has electric start. Good thing, I wouldn't be tough enough to start with a pull rope.

Ken

[R Bedell]

Me either. Thank God for electric start.

[West Valley G]

Pecking away at putting this engine back together among other parts of it. Figured I would replace the internal parts of Breather Assembly, but, looks like you can no longer buy just the reed without replacing the entire assembly for way more cash of course. No matter what parts I look up I get part#KH-52-035-02-S to replace them. Has anyone bought this breather? What I guess I am wondering does it replace everything in the breather including reed and filter? I can't really tell from descriptions or pics. It is the M18 engine.

Thanks, hope you all are well.

Ken

[R Bedell]

Kohler updated the Breather Assembly for the KT/Mag series engines and it is a whole assembly.

[West Valley G]

Put the barrels and pistons back on the M18 today. I had checked the valve clearances when I pulled the engine and they were pretty much not existent. Now am wondering it I goofed and measured them on the wrong stroke, I don't know. When I went to work on clearances today TDC at compression stroke the clearances are pretty excessive. Pretty close to .016 on both exhaust and intake.

So I don't mind buying valves and going that way but. Having put stuff back together already would a person have to lap the new valves
in like I did the old ones. That could be pretty darn tough with them on the engine.

I did not spit the case on this engine as it was running really well when I pulled it, I had just lost Magneto. So I could be having other
stuff going on inside I reckon.

Thanks for the input.

Ken

[ol'George]

You can grind a bit off the valve face on the valve grinder, as long as you still have adequate margin left. Or you can take some off the seat with your valve seat stones. Either will decrease clearance.
Clearance:
.003-.008 intake.
Exhaust:
.016-.019 early (*45 valves)
.011-.014- late ( *30 valves)

When adjusting clearance by grinding the stems, I prefer to not install the valve seals, springs/keepers till I have the gap set properly.
Not only it it easier, but you don't nick the seals, rendering them junk.
FWIW: IIRR the high dollar Kohler valve seals have the same part number as the 6 cylinder mustangs in the early 60's ( other Fords used that engine also ).
A REAL auto parts guy can get you seals for $1.00-$2.98 each or less.



Edit:
Pay attention to what yer doing, the Exhausts are the ports on the PTO end of the engine

[West Valley G]

Thanks George. I guess if a guy is going to take some off the valve face or the seat, the barrels would need to come back off or could a guy do that with them in place.

Wondering if I bought new valves if they would be longer then mine indicating that the stems are worn on mine. Been looking around but
can't seem to find an overall valve length.

Maybe I could rob some parts off the 66 Mustang 6 cylinder sitting at the other end of the shop? Just kidding.

I have new seals already for this project. I think what I did was my initial measurement I took I was on the exhaust stroke and not the
compression. Rats. First time working on twin. I go to school everyday around here.

Thanks for the help

Ken

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by West Valley G

Thanks George. I guess if a guy is going to take some off the valve face or the seat, the barrels would need to come back off or could a guy do that with them in place.

Wondering if I bought new valves if they would be longer then mine indicating that the stems are worn on mine. Been looking around but
can't seem to find an overall valve length.

Maybe I could rob some parts off the 66 Mustang 6 cylinder sitting at the other end of the shop? Just kidding.

I have new seals already for this project. I think what I did was my initial measurement I took I was on the exhaust stroke and not the
compression. Rats. First time working on twin. I go to school everyday around here.
Thanks for the help

Ken

A man quits learning the day he stops breathing. Chucking the valves in the valve grinder would not be cause for cyl removal. But grinding the seats in the cylinder would induce chit in the area requiring cleaning unless one was awful careful sealing the piston bores from grinding debris' it could be done with tape I guess. Do you have a valve grinder and seating tools? (I'm not talking lapping with compound, but actual grinder and stones mandrels/pilots) if not prolly best to just get new valves as they do come longer to allow custom trimming of the stems.

I've accumulated tools of the trade from father and father in law and relatives as well as auctions and now the 'net. Folks today just do not rebuild engines because of time and labor costs. There is no real money in it. One can buy a new short block/long block engine from GM for less than they have in parts and labor with a warranty. I have seen a lot of changes since the mid 50's, when i was just a kid learning. Do check your valve angle if you order new valves as they did go to *30 on the later intakes, it is all detailed in the service manual.

One other thing, if your engine came with RTV instead of gaskets between the jugs and block, put it back that way because your clearance will grow if you use gaskets. I think you understand what I'm saying. All the Magnum's I've seen, come RTV, not gasketed.
Use the RTV sparingly, more is not better!! I prefer Yamabond or Hondabond instead of RTV.

luck!