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#52
02-18-2021, 04:07 PM
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Alan Basket Cases: 129, 1450 sold, 1650 125: 48" Mower Deck, Windbreaker Cab 127: 3 turn steering gear, Spring Assist, Sleeve Hitch, 48" Mower Deck, Dozer Blade 147: 3 turn steering gear, Spring Assist, QA36a w/Xtreme Motorworks Wings 
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#53
02-18-2021, 09:44 PM
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Are you using the square tubing frame for your reservoir?
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#55
02-18-2021, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
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#56
03-03-2021, 06:16 PM
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While I hurry up and wait on the engine refurbish, I figured now's a good time to start on the heel/toe forward/reverse.
I machined a pair of bushings from UHMW with a 1" OD and 1/2" ID to mount the cross shaft. Those will fit in the bosses that the deck lift rocker shaft went through. A collar on each inboard end will keep the shaft from side shifting. Two more got welded to either side of the link lever. Then two ball joints to complete the link up to the trans lever. I'll find a couple pedals from a small wrecked car for my heel/toe lever. Once I have the engine together and out of the way, I'll start on the bucket.
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#57
03-03-2021, 10:23 PM
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I did the foot control thing on my grader, but wish I had been able to do a spring return to neutral.
I think you may find, as I have, that having the control lever still in the mix makes the foot control a bit clumsy (since you are pushing that hand lever around, too). I've considered disconnecting it but without a spring return to neutral, you need the resistance in the hand lever to keep the hydro from running away. Following to see how it works out for you. Any advice would be welcomed! What was wrong with the engine?
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#58
03-03-2021, 10:40 PM
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Many hydrostats have the option for a centering spring on the swash trunnion shaft. The problem with a return spring is you have to hold it at the speed you want. Not handy for tilling or jobs where you want a steady sustained speed. For a FEL it may be handy. The resistance on mine is at the friction bushing at the bottom of the shaft. The hand lever offers none.
The engine had a bad noise which I originally assumed was the PTO or driveline. It wasn't.
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#59
03-05-2021, 07:30 PM
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You're right, it's actually the friction point on the speed control, not the lever itself. I was just attributing the friction to that entire assembly. Though, to be honest, the lever does have a finite (though small) amount of inertia you need to move around with the foot control if it's still hooked up.
My Kubota has a hydro pedal, front/reverse, spring loaded to neutral. I don't find it any problem to adjust or hold speed. You can always reduce throttle a bit if you need a constant speed with the pedal all the way forward, for example. Since most of my use of the Kubota is with the FEL (don't keep the mower deck on it much) it's a non issue. I'm basically pedal to the metal all the time with it, LOL. Details on the engine problem...??
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#60
03-05-2021, 07:37 PM
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I just bent a piece of 5/8 round stock. Still need to weld a couple small plates to each end. Might mimic the cub cadet clutch pedal, I think I have a couple extra rubber pads..
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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