Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

Cub Cadet Classics R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres Binder Books

CC Speciaalties IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!



Only Cub Cadets Chat!

OCC Archives


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Engines > Briggs & Stratton Engines

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-01-2014, 11:38 AM
BassBlaster BassBlaster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 266
Default Rebuild Parts

Where are you guys getting your engine rebuild parts?

I have a 16HP Briggs Vanguard that's needing a rebuild. Im not sure what happened but it started smoking pretty good and burnt quite a bit of oil. I checked Ebay and found a complete rebuild kit but my engines model number wasn't listed. I also checked Jacks Small Engines but could only find kits for small single cylinder engines.

Also, is there a manual like a Clymer manual that would have torque specs and what not?

I need to make this happen pretty quick as this is my only mower and Id prefer not to have to pay someone to mow my yard very many times.

Oh my engine model number is 303447

Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-01-2014, 12:25 PM
Merk Merk is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,977
Default

The best you can do for your Briggs is go to Briggs and Stratton website to get a manual the has the needed specs and part numbers to rebuild your engine. I'm not a big fan of the e-bay deals for your small engine. You don't know where the parts came from and are they to the small engine specs.

I purchase my replacement parts from my local NAPA store or a local small engine shop.
__________________
Project Uncle Dick
Cub Cadet 70
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-01-2014, 12:43 PM
BassBlaster BassBlaster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 266
Default

I looked around at OEM parts. I never found a complete rebuild kit but looking at the prices to a piece a kit together, it may be pointless to spend the money. All the required parts are gonna be $500 plus any machining I may need done. A brand new 16HP Vanguard is $850 and at that point I might as well go buy a new mower since this one is 17 years old. I was hoping to find a cheaper alternative as this engine only has 700 hours on it and may be worth salvaging.

I purchased this mower from a guy who was told the PTO needed replaced. I replaced the PTO relay for $13 and it worked perfectly. I paid $50 for the mower. Replaced the battery, a couple of tires and all the fluids and filters. Ive been mowning with it for 4 seasons now so Ive definitely got my money out of it but if I can save it without going to crazy, I will.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-01-2014, 12:51 PM
OffTime's Avatar
OffTime OffTime is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 159
Default

I suggest you tear it down and see what went wrong before trying to decide what it may need. You will need gaskets, but do you need over sized pistons and rings? Is the cylinder scored so badly that a rebuild isn't an option? (I doubt it, but I have to ask anyway.) You may just need valve seals or a head job. First step is to pull heads and do an inspection of cylinders and heads/valves.
__________________
Matthew B


1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-01-2014, 07:32 PM
Jkainz's Avatar
Jkainz Jkainz is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: North Dakota
Posts: 6
Default Briggs using oil

My friend's engine started to smoke real bad all of a sudden. Engine is an overhead valve, Head gasket blew into the push rod chamber, this pressurized the crank case and pushed oil into the air filter chamber, he used it for a couple of mowings lucky it didn't erode the block in the area of the bad head gasket, there was about .005 lower which the head gasket will take up. There is a long space in that area between head bolts. Easy fix pulled head, new Gasket, followed Briggs torques and has been mowing up a storm. Grass clippings accumulated from 13 years of use in the push rod chamber area which may have caused a spot to overheat. Hope this helps, My Dollars worth.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-01-2014, 09:29 PM
OffTime's Avatar
OffTime OffTime is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Georgia
Posts: 159
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jkainz View Post
My friend's engine started to smoke real bad all of a sudden. Engine is an overhead valve, Head gasket blew into the push rod chamber, this pressurized the crank case and pushed oil into the air filter chamber, he used it for a couple of mowings lucky it didn't erode the block in the area of the bad head gasket, there was about .005 lower which the head gasket will take up. There is a long space in that area between head bolts. Easy fix pulled head, new Gasket, followed Briggs torques and has been mowing up a storm. Grass clippings accumulated from 13 years of use in the push rod chamber area which may have caused a spot to overheat. Hope this helps, My Dollars worth.
Come to think of it, I have actually seen that happen on a Kohler OHV engine. Good call. Might be worth the check.

BTW, if there is a .005 dip in the block and or head, the gasket might take it up for a while, but that is certainly a temporary fix. Likely to happen again at the same spot if not repaired.
__________________
Matthew B


1972 129 w/hydraulic lift and head light option soon to be repainted
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-02-2014, 07:56 PM
BassBlaster BassBlaster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 266
Default

Ive done some more research and the blown head gasket makes since. Im hoping to get some time to possibly pull the heads tomorrow and have a look. That would be nice if that was the problem. I can get a complete valve gasket set shipped for about $45.

Thanks for the tip guys.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-09-2014, 09:10 PM
BassBlaster BassBlaster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 266
Default

So I replaced my head gaskets today and I need to set the valve clearance. My service manual says the piston needs to be 1/4" passed TDC on the compression stroke and the valves need to be set at that point. What does that mean? How can you go passed TDC? Does it mean to bring it to TDC and then then let the piston drop 1/4"? Im confused.

By the way, I purchased the Briggs service manual and this is the worst service manual I have ever read. Im used to Haynes and Clymer, etc. Complete tear down manuals that actually tell you how to do a job. This is just a step by step manual without any real info about the steps such as how to adjust the valves.

Can someone please help me with valve adjustment on a Briggs Vanguard 303447. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-09-2014, 10:54 PM
J-Mech's Avatar
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,244
Default

The book isn't "literal". Just put the piston at TDC, then roll it a little past. That's all it wants you to do.
__________________
Jonathan
"They say money doesn't buy happiness....... but it does buy Cub Cadets, and Cub Cadets make me VERY happy!"

Runners: 1050, 1811, 185LB, JD 317
On the "back burner": 2-71's, 1250DS, 1000, 582, 682, 982, JD 318.
I have over 30 implements/attachments! IH, Cub Cadet, Brinly, Agrifab, and more!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-10-2014, 06:16 AM
BassBlaster BassBlaster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Ohio
Posts: 266
Default

K thanks. How do I know Im on the compression stroke?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, & do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH®, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER® are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.