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#31
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Alrighty, thanks. I took my drive line in and out several times without loosening the bolts.
Lots of aluminum pans on ebay, but it would it would suck to end up buying one that had the same problem. Many seller's idea of "good condition" is a bit subjective. |
#32
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Hang in there, cast pans show up, and you can always request a seller more info and pix's of bolt area in Aluminum pans, most are willing to work with you.
And ebay has your back if item "is not as described" BTDT. Yes it is a disappointment and time lost if a pan is bad. |
#33
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The piston showed up yesterday and I picked up the bored block this morning. Pretty smooth sailing until I went to install the crank seals. Well the flywheel side seal is just a piece of $h!t. For the PTO side there was two seals. BOTH no good! Basically size for size on the bore.
It's a generic seal kit, but the only complaint in the reviews was about the head gasket, of which I ordered a Stens separately. Anyway, now I going to be looking for crank seals. |
#34
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Picked up the replacement seals yesterday and got to work. Got it all together and back in and spent some time today doing some little things while I was at it. New points, condenser, plug and wire It fired right up and ran good, which was nice. I let it run at high idle and cycled the loader to put some load on it. Whether the rattle come form the crank bearings or the balance gears, I'll never know, but it's gone! Re-torqued after it cooled, then put the tin on.
I bought a digital tach and installed it but it doesn't work, possibly a dead battery, which is replaceable. Not sure what was in this dash hole before , but now it has a tach. I have to pull the fuel tank off again to get at the tach mounting stud nuts but till then, I'll have to use a hand held tach to set the max rpm. Also discovered after it was installed that the threads are stripped in the SG pivot on one end. Have to pull that and go oversize or helicoil it. But overall I'm happy that it's done and seems to run fine. Picked up some plate for the bucket today too. |
#35
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Sounds good.
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Roland Bedell CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 Buy: Made in the USA |
#36
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You gonna dump that exhaust right out onto that new paint and all them hoses??
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#37
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^^^^ Raise the loader about six inches and it misses everything, but no it's not staying like that. I've been spraying PB Blaster on the elbow threads for six months now and periodically trying to turn it and did get it to move a few degrees one time. My fear is breaking the block. I may cut it off and split it in two. I'd like the exhaust pipe to run straight down and then have the muffler under the front at a right angle to the frame.
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#38
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Good to see your progress.
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#39
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I put the muffler on mine under the right foot rest and ran the exhaust underneath to the rear and out the right side under the weight box
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#40
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That sounds like a good solution, every car manufacturer in the world may be onto something there. Can you post a couple pics?
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