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#91
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That's a real piece of work! You should be proud of that one.
I know I'd certainly like to have the talent to build that. So when I get older and give up furniture making - this is what I have to look forward to for talent?
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Mike Ontario, Canada IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower. Now everyone wants a Cub! Beware of the Wife |
#92
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Quote:
Here's evidence of my furniture making creds:
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#93
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Beautiful woodworking. Looks like cherry. Love to work with cherry.
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Richard 1979 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20, dual hydraulics, power steering and Cat 0 three point |
#94
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Yep. Cherry is my favorite. The dresser is walnut, my second favorite.
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#95
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Nice job on the grader build, looks fantastic!
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#96
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Had an interesting issue appear a couple weeks ago with the motor grader. As I was touching up the driveway, it suffered a catastrophic drive belt failure. A puff of black smoke, then a shredded belt. Towed it back to the shop and decided it was time to implement the hydraulic drive system as I assumed the belt drive was too fragile. Maybe 5 hours on the belt. Belt runs from the engine PTO down to the common drive shaft between the two hydrostats.
After a couple weeks fabricating mounts and installing the hydraulic pump, motor, relief valve and associated plumbing (using the rear hydro as a fluid reservoir) I got it up and running only to discover the rear hydro is not working. The rear axle spins freely, as if it's uncoupled from the hydro. The forward axle is still working, so it's the only one being driven by the hydro system at this point. I'm thinking now that something seized up in the rear hydro and caused the belt to fail. The rear axle now just free-wheels and there is some jerkiness in the drive system, apparently from the internal failure of the rear hydro. I expect it won't be a pretty sight. So I'm about to pull the rear hydro off and see what's up with it. It needs a cork seal anyway, so maybe it's time to address that. Some pics of the hydraulic drive arrangement. It actually works as intended. Except the common drive shaft just passes through the rear hydro without any effect. Oh, one more thing. All the plumbing in these pictures is backwards. Don't believe what you read in the Q&A section of the Northern Tool website under this particular pump/motor. I could not find mfg info on pump rotation vs. fluid flow so I went by the website answer. It's all been re-routed after these pictures were taken. Specs: Pump/motor info: 6 gpm at 3600rpm, 1600 psi continuous/2500psi intermittent, (NorTrac Bi-Rotational Pump/Motor — 6.3 GPM, 1/2in. Dia. Shaft, Model# CBS6-F6. 3SS Item# 47350) Relief valve adjustable from 1500psi to 2500psi. Penetrations into rear axle: pump suction with dip tube, motor discharge (return), relief valve discharge and a fill/vent pipe.
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#97
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Well, I am no stranger to the world of failed Sunstrand hydro pumps. I've done research on them in the past and as it seems, there are only 3 major failure points on them.
First, and most common, is the motor piston assembly. This is the part that fails from being towed or pushed way too fast, and the same failure to occur on my 107 who knows how long ago. When the motor pistons fail, however, it locks up the rear wheels and they will not spin. Next is the pump piston assembly. I have not actually seen any failures occur here before, but based on your report, it seems somewhat likely that this was where the issue occured. If the pump pistons fail it would lock up the input shaft (and could very well destroy a drive belt) but the wheels would still be able to spin freely. Finally there's failure of the gears within the rear case. Not much to break here but I do believe I've seen it happen somewhere. If such occurs, obviously the pump would still work but it wouldn't drive the wheels, and the wheels would just roll freely. But that wouldn't explain the shredded drive belt. Hope this helps, best thing to do is tear into the thing and find out. I'm going with pump piston failure based on the description you gave. It'll be pretty obvious what failed once you're inside the pump...
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#98
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Removed, disassembled the hydrostat. Nothing wrong with it. Replaced the gasket, reassembled, reinstalled with a new cork gasket and refilled fluid.
Was careful to match mark the charge pump housing, kept the valve plates in exact same arrangement, the swash plate pivots correctly, all the slippers look fine, (did not actually remove the piston blocks as everything looked good), reinstalled the charge pump gear pin, and did not pinch the charge pump o ring. (not the first time I've been into a hydrostat). Reinstalled and still not working. Next step is replace the filter which I removed and simply reinstalled. I have a spare. I'm driving the hydrostat with a drill to test it. The front axle works fine, the rear does not. Next step is to pull the rear cover and see if something in there is busted. From the hydro opening in the front of the axle housing, the large gear the hydro motor pinion drives seems to be connected to the wheels, as expected. So next thought is plugged filter, as unlikely as that seems because it was new last year. Other ideas?
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#99
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If you jack the tires off the ground, do they spin freely? Being as its the back one, I guess it's easy enough to take the cover off and see. Broken pinion shaft maybe? Stripped spline on the hydraulic pump or motor shaft inside the cylinder block?
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#100
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When I had the hydro apart, I did not remove the cylinder blocks from the shafts, but they both turned with the shafts as you'd expect. I suppose the spline(s) could be stripped and my spinning the shafts by hand did not reveal that situation. There was no debris or evidence of metal pieces anywhere inside the unit. The pinion out the back of the motor block looks good and is coupled to the motor block shaft. Yes, removing the rear cover is next. The rear axle has been working up to this point fine, and was working just a couple weeks ago when I had both axles off the floor to sync them better. Engine running, both axles worked as expected. It's got to be something simple. Hope it's the filter. Will replace that tomorrow. Also need to check the suction tube to make sure it's not plugged somehow. Should have checked that when I had it apart...
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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