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Clutch assembly removal question
I'm pretty much rebuilding my recently purchased CC 100. I've pulled the engine and set it aside and want to remove and rebuild the clutch assembly, which currently has a broken teaser spring and the clutch disc's drive holes are "wallered" out. I'm going to replace both of those items and also the main load spring.
I need some expert advice on the removal of the clutch assembly. I searched around on the internet and found one guy who warned that when the pins are driven out of the coupler at the transmission, that the input shaft must be braced to prevent damage. I'm not sure I understand what this means. Any idea or advice on the best way to remove the input (drive) shaft from this coupler? How do I "brace the drive shaft?
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1951 Farmall H; 1957 Willys CJ5; 1959 Farmall Cub; 1961 Cub Cadet Original; 1963 & 1964 Cub Cadet 100's; 1971 Cub Cadet 106 |
#2
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#3
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Anything you can stick under/between the driveshaft and table or between the driveshaft and the frame or wherever to support it while driving out the pins to avoid damage to the input shaft bushing and seal
Standing that little guy up on his butt will make things a bunch easier. |
#4
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By "standing it up," I take it that the bushing doesn't need to be moving during and after the removal of the drive shaft. It's not on it's butt just now, but I do have the front of the tractor elevated, so that should help. Thanks again. I'll post again when I get 'er done...
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1951 Farmall H; 1957 Willys CJ5; 1959 Farmall Cub; 1961 Cub Cadet Original; 1963 & 1964 Cub Cadet 100's; 1971 Cub Cadet 106 |
#5
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I stood up one of my John Deere's over the winter. Cub's definitely got more weight to it but shouldn't be too difficult considering you've pulled the engine already
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#6
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Anyway you look at it, it's going to be a PITA to get them pins out tregardless how you go about it.
Best to have a 2nd pair of hands to assist and hold things steady. |
#7
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Soaking those pins in PB right now. Do both pins have to come out?
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1951 Farmall H; 1957 Willys CJ5; 1959 Farmall Cub; 1961 Cub Cadet Original; 1963 & 1964 Cub Cadet 100's; 1971 Cub Cadet 106 |
#8
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Only one (the easiest one to access) unless you have a ton of slop in the coupler, in which case it should be replaced and even possibly the driveshaft as well if there is a lot of wear on the ends or if the holes are wallered out
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#9
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I would split the tractor and remove the clutch that way. Being the engine is out, you can remove all the clutch parts on one end and then remove the shaft and clutch arm after you split it.BTDT
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#10
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You shouldn't have to drain any oil. When stood, up the oil level will not reach the opening on the shifter, the only place it can run out. Just don't turn it completely upside down. |
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