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  #11  
Old 05-26-2021, 10:47 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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So that sounds like you are eliminating the hydro, correct?
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2021, 11:30 AM
jwax20 jwax20 is offline
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No- keeping the transaxle and existing tires. Electric motor to drive it.
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  #13  
Old 05-26-2021, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwax20 View Post
Now to find/fabricate a coupler between the 1/2" motor shaft and the tapered, keyed input to the transaxle. Open for ideas!
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Originally Posted by jwax20 View Post
1800 watt DC Brushless motors are available for $100 or so, but do need a controller- another $100 or so.
Two Questions:
1. The input to the hydro (i.e. the driveshaft) uses the rubber barrel type flex connector, so where is the tapered, keyed input to the transaxle that you are talking about.

2. If you are going through the hydro, that would control your speed. So why do you need a speed controller for the motor?
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2021, 05:15 PM
jwax20 jwax20 is offline
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I removed that rubber flex connector. There's a tapered shaft, keyed, with a 3/8"X24 threaded shaft in there.
Correct- no need for motor speed control.
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2021, 08:43 AM
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Myself and others here on this forum have used the 2000/3000 series driveshaft and couplers to modify/improve the drive system on older Cubs with the flex discs.
You might consider retaining the shaft/coupler at the hydro input and fabbing/making a coupler to adapt the driveshaft to your motor output.
That would retain for you some degree of flexibility in the driveshaft, plus you could retain the mounting for your cooling fan.
BTW, the inside diameter of the of the 2000 is 5/8".
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  #16  
Old 05-27-2021, 09:42 AM
jwax20 jwax20 is offline
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Good idea, Ironman! Perhaps you can look at the picture attached and tell me where I might find a coupler to match this hydro input to my 1/2" motor shaft?
My driveshaft is shown in the picture also.
Appreciate your help!
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  #17  
Old 05-28-2021, 07:31 AM
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Maybe something like this coupler from McMaster-Carr.
You could either cut cut off one end of your driveshaft and insert a piece of 5/8 rod and bore the coupler 1/2" on one side and 5/8" on the other side, or 1/2" and driveshaft o.d. on the other side.
https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-coupl...ft-type~round/
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2021, 04:56 PM
jwax20 jwax20 is offline
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Thanks again, Ironman!
Think I have the coupling issue resolved.
Would you know of where I can find a complete description of the operation of that transaxle? Trying to identify the controls on it- I know the throttle, and probably the "Neutral" lever, but there's one more lever I don't know what it does. A Brake, maybe? A detailed picture of the hydro would be helpful.
John
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2021, 03:12 PM
jwax20 jwax20 is offline
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Success! After fabricating an adapter to couple 1800 watt motor to hydro, I found it does indeed have enough power to run the machine! However, all the throttle linkages have been scrapped, so I "hard wired" the throttle rod full open (max speed), and am using the electric motor controller to control vehicle speed.
Question is- will this use damage the hydro, since it is made for constant (high) speed input, and using the throttle to control vehicle speed?
I've locked the hydro in full speed ahead, and changing the motor speed to control vehicle speed. Will the hydro survive?
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  #20  
Old 06-09-2021, 05:29 PM
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One thing to keep in mind is the the hydro is designed to run in one direction. If you want reverse you need the hydro for that.
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