Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Speciaalties R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 12-10-2018, 07:57 AM
cooperino's Avatar
cooperino cooperino is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: New York
Posts: 3,065
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by heinriech View Post
Thanks for input guys! It’s probably been 6-8 months since it has started well. As far as running after it started, just about a month+ ago when I mowed last. I did put an automotive battery (smaller) but still didn’t show a noticeable difference in cranking speed. I will try that again. I also have a 16 volt automotive battery out of the race car that should kick it in the butt. Another item to note is the plugs are gapped at .043”. So not sure if that may be the issue. What do you recommend for new replacement plugs?
Cranking amps is what turns starter well or not. A battery showing 12.5 volts but has no capacity will struggle to turn an engine. If you used a car battery with nearly twice the cranking amps as a GT battery and it didnt turn as fast as it should I would start looking into other things like. Starter going bad, poor connections on battery, poor grounds, etc. The only other thing that could make an engine spin slowly would be timing, or binding in engine or other components. For instance. If your hydro were to be partially engaged during cranking that would be an additional strain. Same thing would hold true for a PTO trying to turn the belt while cranking. I would start with new plugs gaped correctly. Then I would look at wiring and battery terminals.
__________________
Cooperino 100, 104,125, 126, 2x129's, 804, 1211, 1641
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-10-2018, 08:50 AM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,610
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gompers View Post
Did you try both of those at the same time? Curious if one or the other made the bigger difference.

As much as (I think mostly uninformed) folks like to bag on the KT17, those things pop right off even when it's -10 out. Definitely an easier to start engine than the Mags.

One thing CCC did right in the cyclops was going to the automotive style battery. That helps a good deal, IMO.
The pug gap helped a little, the larger and doubling of the gauge of the starter wires helped noticeably more.

The KT's having battery/coil ignition, produce spark at one rpm.

What I learned is some of the aftermarket coils must have less winding's, so
need more rpm's to produce spark, or I just got a weak/cheap coil.
during summer use it works, no problems.
The original kohler coil always started in winter without problems or modifications.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-10-2018, 08:54 AM
Gompers Gompers is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 549
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cooperino View Post
Cranking amps is what turns starter well or not. A battery showing 12.5 volts but has no capacity will struggle to turn an engine. If you used a car battery with nearly twice the cranking amps as a GT battery and it didnt turn as fast as it should I would start looking into other things like. Starter going bad, poor connections on battery, poor grounds, etc. The only other thing that could make an engine spin slowly would be timing, or binding in engine or other components. For instance. If your hydro were to be partially engaged during cranking that would be an additional strain. Same thing would hold true for a PTO trying to turn the belt while cranking. I would start with new plugs gaped correctly. Then I would look at wiring and battery terminals.
I’m in agreement with coop here.
Regap or replace those plugs, and then take a look at the wiring. Pulling the starter is a bit of a PITA, but pulling it and cleaning it up and maybe lubing the bushing might help too.

It’s possible it’s a fuel issue, and that’s the other likely troubleshooting path, but if it’s not spinning over fast enough, it’s not gonna start.
__________________
125, 127, 2x IH 682, 2x IH 782, 2084, 3225, 2x3240
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-10-2018, 10:42 AM
johncub7172's Avatar
johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,103
Default

I'm under the impression, that to find out what the spark plug gap should be, you would try to retrieve an accurate measurement of the spark from the plug it's self using a wooden ruler, then divide that by the compression ratio. Say, if the spark was .500" and divide that by actual compression ratio.
__________________
IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-21-2018, 12:05 PM
heinriech heinriech is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: PA
Posts: 84
Default

Update now I have time off work and the weather is decent. Gapped the plugs to .035" and tried again. More of the same: crank crank crack, putt, crank crank crank, putt. Until it locked up. Pulled the plugs, no crank. Checked engine oil, good. Checked hydro fluid, little low but got some on my pinky. Tried to move the engine with a pry bar where the hydro driveshaft comes off the back of the motor and will not move. should I be able to roll the motor from here with a pry bar? The tractor does roll forward and backward 1-2 feet.

How far can I push this thing to get it up to the front garage where I can really dig into it?

Thanks for all the help!
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12-21-2018, 01:35 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,693
Default

Quote:
How far can I push this thing to get it up to the front garage where I can really dig into it?
If you go nice and slow, you will have no problems.
__________________
Roland Bedell

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

Buy: Made in the USA
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-21-2018, 02:10 PM
heinriech heinriech is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: PA
Posts: 84
Default

Roland should I be able to roll the motor with a pry bar on the rag joint at the rear of the motor? With the plugs out of the motor.

Thanks for all the help!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-21-2018, 02:20 PM
darkminion_17's Avatar
darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 10,984
Default

You should unless the starter is stuck on the flywheel ring gear.
__________________
Up to 530 and counting...
I give up updating my profile!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-21-2018, 02:36 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 13,693
Default

I can roll my M-20 over by hand, at the Flex Disc Joint. Unless, like Lew said.
__________________
Roland Bedell

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

Buy: Made in the USA
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-21-2018, 03:32 PM
Gompers Gompers is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Des Moines, Iowa
Posts: 549
Default

Should absolutely be able to roll it over by hand, especially with the plugs out.

Those symptoms still sound to me like it's not spinning fast enough.

Also possible your starter has soiled itself.
__________________
125, 127, 2x IH 682, 2x IH 782, 2084, 3225, 2x3240
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.