149 Pump Drive Question.

[Ambush]

I pulled the pump drive shaft off today to change the flex coupling. I've read that some tractors have a ball between the the two shafts for alignment. Mine has a pilot spigot that goes into a hole in the pump coupling. Also the bar is either bent or welded on very crooked. Just wondering if it's home made?

[finsruskw]

Drive flange looks to be bent AND worn.

The ball bearing in the shaft is a feature of the quiet line Cubs w/the ISO rail mount engine system. The 149's have a solid mounted engine.

You might inspect the front coupler on your 149 for issues and possible parts needs while you are in there. Chances are you will find some.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Ambush

I pulled the pump drive shaft off today to change the flex coupling. I've read that some tractors have a ball between the the two shafts for alignment. Mine has a pilot spigot that goes into a hole in the pump coupling. Also the bar is either bent or welded on very crooked. Just wondering if it's home made?

At the top of the page you will see "parts by Jeff" he makes those hard to find, or no longer available parts.

[Ambush]

Ok thanks guys. So this shaft is factory and I can reliably take measurements from it? The pump shaft coupling is good other than a slight oblong shape to pilot hole. The engine coupling was worn from the drive pin and I welded those in. But the flange on the shaft just seems way to wonky to have been sent out like that.

And unfortunately for me, being across the border and at the other side of the continent, it would be over $200 by the time I got the parts from Jeff. I'll get a piece of 5/8" shaft. That way I can also machine the pilot hole true in the pump coupling and make the spigot oversize to match. It seems to be there as a safety should the coupling completely fail.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Ambush

Ok thanks guys. So this shaft is factory and I can reliably take measurements from it? The pump shaft coupling is good other than a slight oblong shape to pilot hole. The engine coupling was worn from the drive pin and I welded those in. But the flange on the shaft just seems way to wonky to have been sent out like that.

And unfortunately for me, being across the border and at the other side of the continent, it would be over $200 by the time I got the parts from Jeff. I'll get a piece of 5/8" shaft. That way I can also machine the pilot hole true in the pump coupling and make the spigot oversize to match. It seems to be there as a safety should the coupling completely fail.

The alignment "pin" in the coupling, assures that it is centered, the flex rubber or "rag" as it is called, transmits the power, yes it also keeps things centered somewhat.
Do not weld the hydro input shaft, it is hardened as it is the inner race of the
pump needle bearing.

[Ambush]

"Do not weld the hydro input shaft".

Nope, no need for that. But with the right procedure and equipment it can and has been done to save some farmer's butt in the middle of harvest. BTDT

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by Ambush

"Do not weld the hydro input shaft".

Nope, no need for that. But with the right procedure and equipment it can and has been done to save some farmer's butt in the middle of harvest. BTDT

You have read one of my posts some years ago

[Ambush]

Haha, no, but I have dealt with farmers for years. They would ask about rebuilding the pumps on their machinery after it was failing at the end of harvest. But I wouldn't see them again until it was totally dead and they really needed it.

I made a new shaft today. My parts, from a sponsor, finally made it across the border to Montreal yesterday. That trip took 3 1/2 weeks. Only a few thousand more miles to go.

I did notice that Jeff makes a coupling for the pump input to the drive shaft. Does that replace the flex coupling and would that work on my 149?