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  #21  
Old 12-24-2020, 04:21 PM
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RustyShackleford RustyShackleford is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
It would be good to have your armature commutators machined and field coils tested.
Maybe you can take your s/g and kit to mom & pop and they will give you a break on rebiulding it.
They will certainly be able to re-attach the wire to the terminal.
That's a good idea, actually. I'll have next week off; hopefully they won't!

Merry Christmas all!
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2021, 08:29 PM
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Evening gents,

I decided to pull the engine and go through it to see what the condition is. I’m at the point where I’m removing the front PTO clutch and, you guessed it, those darn set screws are in there GOOD. One of the set screws now has the tip of a T20 bit jammed into it which broke off when I was trying to loosen the screw. So...I don’t think I’m going to be able to get that Torx bit piece out; not easily anyways. My question now is, can you pull the clutch assembly as a unit without removing the 6 set screws from the pulley? Obviously the bearing would have to come with it.
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  #23  
Old 01-09-2021, 09:43 PM
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There is an eccentric locking collar on the bearing which also has a set screw. Not sure you can get in there with a punch or an Allen key. And its' a 50/50 chance that you'll tap the collar the right rotation.
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  #24  
Old 01-09-2021, 09:45 PM
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It is possible, the PTO on my 147 came off that way even with all the set screws removed. However it probably will take a bunch of extra force to drive off the bearing with the PTO.
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  #25  
Old 01-09-2021, 09:58 PM
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I have used a 3 jaw puller to remove the pto. The bearings outer casing came off. You will still need to remove the set screws.
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  #26  
Old 01-09-2021, 10:48 PM
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Sometimes parts stores will loan or rent pullers. Is it safe to use a slide hammer without damaging the crank bearings or casing? If it is (within reason) then a three jaw puller or a bearing spreader on the pulley and a slide hammer adapter. There is no way to use a pusher bolt while the pully is assembled.
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  #27  
Old 01-10-2021, 03:29 AM
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I cut the triangular spring steel plate and the clutch button off so that the center of the shaft is exposed in order to use a puller, but I don’t want to destroy the crank (or the PTO pulley) if using a puller would do so with the collar still tight on the bearing.

I tried whacking the pulley forward with a brass drift and a hammer, and it’s a bit looser, but isn’t budging much.
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  #28  
Old 01-10-2021, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyShackleford View Post
Evening gents,

I decided to pull the engine and go through it to see what the condition is. I’m at the point where I’m removing the front PTO clutch and, you guessed it, those darn set screws are in there GOOD. One of the set screws now has the tip of a T20 bit jammed into it which broke off when I was trying to loosen the screw. So...I don’t think I’m going to be able to get that Torx bit piece out; not easily anyways. My question now is, can you pull the clutch assembly as a unit without removing the 6 set screws from the pulley? Obviously the bearing would have to come with it.
First, you didn't mention about the other set screws. Have you worked on getting them out? It would help things along if they were.

Second, they are not Torx set screws,they are ALLEN screws (six sided). Your best bet is to make sure all the crud is out of the holes and the sockets of the screws so that the wrench completely seats in them . Poke with a wire or a pick and use compressed air and blow out the holes. Then soak the holes with holes with PB blaster for a few days. You can stick a Q-Tip in the hole to act as a wick to keep the Blaster damp. Get yourself a good quality Allen wrench that is not rounded off on the end and fits snuggly in the socket of the screw. Tighten the screw a little first, then loosten, then tighten, etc. Just keep working them. If no joy, Blast them again for a few days and try again.
If you can get all the other screws out, the broken one may relax and give up the broken piece. Don't forget, there are two screws in each hole (total of six).
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  #29  
Old 01-10-2021, 10:06 AM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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Spring plate is definitely bettered sacrificed than a crank bearing or engine case. Smart move.

I used a bearing spreader set up to remove both the pully and the bearing, but I did have all the set screws out. I gently used a slide hammer on the pulley, which seemed no more destruction then pounding with a hammer and drift. Then the bearing spreader and pusher bolt on the bearing.
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  #30  
Old 01-10-2021, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
First, you didn't mention about the other set screws. Have you worked on getting them out? It would help things along if they were.

Second, they are not Torx set screws,they are ALLEN screws (six sided). Your best bet is to make sure all the crud is out of the holes and the sockets of the screws so that the wrench completely seats in them . Poke with a wire or a pick and use compressed air and blow out the holes. Then soak the holes with holes with PB blaster for a few days. You can stick a Q-Tip in the hole to act as a wick to keep the Blaster damp. Get yourself a good quality Allen wrench that is not rounded off on the end and fits snuggly in the socket of the screw. Tighten the screw a little first, then loosten, then tighten, etc. Just keep working them. If no joy, Blast them again for a few days and try again.
If you can get all the other screws out, the broken one may relax and give up the broken piece. Don't forget, there are two screws in each hole (total of six).
It also helps to put a pin punch in the set screw head using the correct size to contact the bottom of the hole, but not damaging the hex that you need to put the Allen wrench in, then smack the punch smartly with a good sized hammer, this helps loosen the set screw.
OR one can use an impact driver with the proper size allen wrench installed in the driver, and striking it with a hammer, turns and loosens it at the same time.
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