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#11
12-02-2020, 11:30 PM
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Keyed hub is welded on. I prefer support on both ends of a pin, so I added that on the cylinder eye and made a pin to fit. The pivot block for the drag link is fitted. I drilled and tapped a 3/8' hole in the plow lift lever. Then welded a nut on for extra meat. I can now just use a pusher bolt to get the lever off.
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#12
12-02-2020, 11:37 PM
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All bolted in and greased up. I milled a keyway on the plow lever end just incase I want to put a keyed hub on there one day as well. And at this point I might as well confess that that's Cat Yellow paint. But in my defense, my son-in-law is a Cat mechanic and the paint is free.
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#13
12-02-2020, 11:48 PM
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And now moving to the front. The PO had tried to make a new plow frame and, though a valiant effort, the execution was dismal. But at least he had used some good iron that I can salvage and rework. I got everything apart and ground off. I got the offset bent into the arms tonight and will hopefully have the frame finished tomorrow.,
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#14
12-03-2020, 09:07 AM
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Looks good! Keep us posted
 Can't blame ya on the paint, in a world where everything is getting more expensive, free paint is free paint! 
__________________
'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts)
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#15
12-03-2020, 08:28 PM
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I need the wisdom, supplies and tools to be able to do what you are doing so I can restore my tractors correctly and not just slap paint on it to make it pretty. I admire your progress.
__________________
Daniel G.  . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller.
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#16
12-03-2020, 09:57 PM
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Well, due to a bannister contractor working from my garage, I had to cover the 149 today.. so no plow frame work. BUT: I did have the pics and sketches that ole'George e-mailed (
) me for the tiller mount bracket. I had some 1/4'X2" bar and a chunk of 1/4" plate picked out already. Just had to get the drive to set up the plasma cutter outside in the cold. Cut out the back and side pieces and two short bars. Did some layout work and stack drilling then jigged the pieces up. Followed up by the welding and clean up with the flap disc. ,
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#17
12-03-2020, 10:08 PM
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I won't be using a gear box pulley drive for the tiller, so don't need that platform. And I'll pretty quick be building a sleeve hitch mount and it will mount on this plate too. I took ole'George's advice and drilled the bottom hole oversize to clear the bottom cover bolt. That way I cam remove the bracket without the cover leaking oil. The test fit looks good, next step is some more free Cat Yellow. Or maybe a nice contrasting color? JD green, Massey red? Cat black?
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#20
12-04-2020, 09:29 PM
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So I salvaged the 3/8" X 2" flat bar the PO built the snowplow frame with. I left the two ears on the flat bar even though the holes didn't match side to side, one being 1/8" closer to the plow mount holes. Now since my chop saw blade is about an 1/8" I decided to cut the long side and make it bolt on. The idea of just removing two bolts to get the plow off the frame appealed to me. And I'll be using the same frame for a dozer blade. I also had to put some curve into the frame which proved a bit time consuming under the press. But once that was done I could weld the original ears back on the frame. Just have to trim the excess material off the back end them paint
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